If i get a needle valve i wont need the isolator though right? Even if off the vp44 supply elbow? I can always use the OTHER port on the filter housing i guess... Kinda cool it has 2 ports... Ill switch the under hood gauge to pre-filter and the in cab to post filter.

 

x2. I have the Vulcan 1/2 Line from the Filter to the IP and it has that same fitting in the elbow. I ran a stainless braided line to the firewall and zip tied the sender there without an pressure snubber. The needle bounced horribly and killed my sensor(electric guage) in a matter of weeks.

Rather than an isolator you can buy a pressure snubber that has an orfice or a fine screen in it that will dampen the pulses and let your gauge live. Though being mechanical you probably won't have to worry about something breaking.

The main reason most people use an isolator on a mechanical gauge is so they can avoid running a fuel line inside the cab.

 

stick one end in a jug of anti frezze then suck on the other end , once you get some in your mouth stop and put your thumb over the end , then pull it out of the jug and it stays in the line as long as you dont remove your thumb .

find a neighbor kid or something

 

I literally almost pissed myself when i read that!

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Where would on get a needle valve from?

I think im going to go in cab, no isolator. I need to figure out how to get the fittings together and what to use to run it in a cab using a needle valve as an isolator. Anyone have any write ups or info?

 

McMaster Carr

You could also try your local hardware store. However you want to make sure the one you get will be compatible with diesel fuel.

You could also go down to your local auto parts store and ask for a pressure snubber. The disadvantage there is you can't shut the line off if something happens to the gauge or you want to take it off.

 

Heres some pics of installs on a 99 - it uses the front port on the fuel filter canaister. Do you still have the filter canister or is it gone? Yours isnt stock so it will be a bit more of a custom setup.





Basically the needle valve goes between the sample point and the fuel pressure guage. Start the truck with the needle valve closed all the way and very slowly open the valve up until you get a steady reading (it should be barely cracked). Thats all there is to it.

 

Went to put my gauge on and the dang thing doesn't have a connection to fit the actual gauge fitting. Its -4AN and they purposely didn't include any fittings for that because they want you to buy their S.S. kit. LAME! So to get by i moved the little cheapo gauge i got from autozone from on top the filter canister into the cab using the line kit from autozone. Just some compression fittings and nylon line. NO leaks and works great. Because of the small line and the copper screen on the gauge i get NO pulsation! My new LP holds 12psi at idle and 10psi at WOT redline.

 

I would still put a needle valve in there - for two reasons: 1) the pulses could eventually screw up your guage and more importantly 2) you dont want a fuel leak in the cab.

 

Very good point! I will get one from Mcmaster. I just wanted something in ASAP because i want to monitor the Summit brand pump closely!

 

You may have caught it in time.