ok just making sure, if it wasnt you might have bigger fish to fry, when truck has been drivin for a while and is up to operating temp does it still do it, if it doesnt then yeah there might be to much room in between the rings and the cylinder wall and it just takes some time for the rings to expand to fit better

 

the rings don't expand. the piston expands, if there is too much play in the bore to rings to piston clearances then there will definitely be a problem with piston slap. have you made a WOT pull down the road at full boost to get the motor good and hot? i'm definitely not saying to do it but if you do and as the EGT gets hotter do you hear the noise go away? if so then i'm 99% sure it'll be piston slap cause as the EGT rises the piston expands taking up the slack in the wall.

 

o ok i knew one of the two did expand, thanks for correcting me. get the motor nice and hot just like he said and see if it goes away

 

while driving, you dont hear it, but just sitting there idling, its pretty loud.. and ya we honed it pretty good... if thats the problem, do i have the option of sleaving the motor? or is there an easier option to do? cuz after this rebuild, im broke! ive heard both rumors that you can and you cant.. and other than the retarted noise the truck runs freakin awesome!

 

If i remember correctly The rings all fit in there nice and tight. Could over honing the Cylinder wall be noticable when installing the piston and the rings to your eyes? or is it such a small amount you wont be able to see it. Are the clamps tight on your fuel lines? Mby its a bad knock from the big pump.

 

im really hoping its not a knock from the pump, cuz it makes the motor sound horrible when you stand next to it! and when we were installing the pistons, each one went in nice like they should.. until number 6.. i dont know if trey hit it hard enough that it slid in the hole that easily or what... cuz we pulled it back out, then the second time he stuck it in, it went in like the others did, with a little less friction so to speak... but i didnt think it would make that much difference.. i should know more tomorrow. im going to finish puttin the grill guard back on and while im messin around im gonna check all the rockers and what not...

 

if it slid in easier than the others then that is your problem. if the piston is at top dead center try making the piston go side to side in the hole. it should move very little if any. if it moves perty good then that is definately your problem. you will have a premature failure with that cylinder ad that sound you head is the piston skirt slapping the cylinder wall.

sorry that i have to be the bearer of bad news.....

 

im not 100% sure but i think they refer to the 5.9 block as a throw away, you cant get the sleeve out someone else might know more, you might also look into some over sized rings for the number six cylinder some people might have a better idea of what to do instead of this

 

I dont know what the cost would be but if it is your problem you could bore all the cylinders and run larger pistons. I dont know if you can run over sized rings with high compressionengines but that might also be something to look into. Good luck and keep us informed.

 

yes you can bore the cylinders to whatever is the best over size for your application. i'm no machinist but i believe you can go from .010 on up to .040 and .060 or bigger. there are aftermarket pistons available for sale for our motors. best thing is to consult a competent machinist. one more thing i just thought about is depending on what type of hone ya'll used you could have a bore that is out of round or egg shaped. this would cause piston slap too.