So, my truck has been down at a local shop for a while, and since I was out of town for work I wasn't in a rush to get it back. It all started when the clutch grenaded. Went with the SB DD, then got a deal om some parts so I stepped my 150 sticks up to 250's and replaced the HX35/40 with a BD super B special charger. Since I already lifted the head I got the ARP 425s and had the head O-ringed. Here is the issue, when I got it back I went to pick up my gf at work and by the time I got there the head gasket was blown, not just lefted, blown like leaking coolant. Its back at the shop now and they are taking care of it, but since my head is O-ringed do the ARP studs require a re-torque? I called ARP but all they could tell me was that on a stock head they don't and wouldn't say anything about if it was O-ringed, almost like he didn't know what I was talking about, seemed like a SBC wingnut. I have heard mixed opinions, so do I need to re-torque them and if so when and how much. Thanks.

 

Anyone...?

 

Well I run h11s most of the time, 12mm mostly on street trucks and heres my procedure - after initial install and 1st torque I leave the valve cover off start the truck and let it get up to temp and then I do a hot retorque. After that I retorque after 200 miles cold on a street truck and after the 1st couple hooks on a competition truck. And then about once a yr depending on miles and what the trucks been doing. 12mm std studs 120ftlbs, 12mm hd studs 130, 14mm 150ftlbs. I believe that's close to what haisley does. Hope that helps.