another vgt turbo Q
 

this has been asked and answerd i can almost bet on it.
i have
1.)6.7manifold
2.)6.7vgt turbo
3.)2001 5.9 cummins
4.)fleece stand alone controler
i want them to go together. how do i do it?
can some one ether send some pics a video or help me find a post that is already made.
i dont want if its a good idea or stuff like that i want a how to guide!!!

Diesel bombers should have a guid section! that would be great!

I am in the process of doing a VGT swap as well. Explain to me what questions you need answered and I will do my best to help you. :up:

Some reading and viewing material:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-2...-vgt-swap.html

VGT swap onto a 2nd gen 24 Valve - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Don't forget :google:

didnt the fleece controller come with instructions?

I think he is talking about the install of the turbo, manifold, controller and all the other necessary parts...etc.

Scott-you can always ask me.
Jared- you havent stopped asking me lol

Scott- you still need a 3rd gen style downpipe. You will have to a 6.7 oil drain. You will need to fabricate a charge pipe to go to the intercooler and fab your air intake system. You will need to run the coolant lines. I think I have already told you which line to tap into. Your stock oil feed line will reach the top of the turbo. You will need the oil feed fitting though if your turbo didnt come with it.

1: Remove factory Air intake parts
2: Remove factory charge pipe and parts.
3: Unbolt turbo from downpipe, oild feed line, and oil drain line.
4: Unbolt manifold from head.
5: Remove charger/manifold.
6: Pull out stock/old downpipe
7: Install 3rd gen style DP
8: Pull out rear freeze plug and install 6.7 oil drain.
9: Loosely bolt 6.7 turbo to 6.7 manifold.
10: Install turbo/manifold assembly.
11: Tighten manifold to head.
12: Tighten turbo to manifold
13: Tighten Downpipe to turbo
14: Tighten downpipe to exhaust
15: install charge pipe.
16: Bolt on oil drain and oil feed lines.
17: install coolant lines.
18: attach controller connector.

Some other notes. Tap your coolant lines with a 3/8 NPT tap and attach your fittings BEFORE you bolt it to the manifold and put it in the truck. If your stock exhaust maniold gaskets are good you can reuse them on the 6.7 one. Make sure you have your metal gasket for in between the turbo and manifold as well. The 6.7 manifold will need block off plates and those need gaskets too. There isnt a specific way to run the controller so thats up to you. You can mount your ebrake switch and controller know where ever you want. I owe Jared some pics of my setup and if you give me your email Ill send them to you too. Any of the gaskets or fittings you need for the turbo I got off glacier diesel. :c:

smorgan@elhisco.com and thanks for the info!
basicaly i can install the turbo easy. i have the 6.7 return line. i will return to the same spot as the old turbo? so ill use my current oil supply line to the top of the turbo and then my new 6.7 oil return line off of the turbo back to the same port as the old turbo oil line went to?

coolant wise i will pic up my water from what? i was thinking inline with the heater core.. then i wold get heat faster in my truck but would that be hot water from the block trying to cool my turbo?

what is the best way to run water to it?

and if i use the idea of taping the water neck witha 3/8 were do i return the water to?

No you will have to pull out the rear freeze plug. Ill snap a pic of mine to show you. You can either pull out your old drain and put in a new freeze plug or just cap off your drain with a plug like i did since I am planning on compunds in the furture. For coolant I used the return line from the heater core. Look at the left side of your engine. There is a hose the comes out then runs along the top of your exhaust manifold and then at the front it drops to the bottom of the radiator. I just removed the hard line that runs across the manifold and plumbed the turbo in line with it. I am currently looking at trying something else with mine. I dont like how the coolant hose has to hump over my oil filter. I either want to re-route my coolant line or move my oil filter. Ill let you know how that goes. :c:

ok deffinatly send me some pictures but i am confuse i have a return and supply line off my turbo now why could i not use new lines to the same ports? (this is for my oil)
coolant line wise you will have to show me on pictures or may be a video you can send the to my phone but i only got a dumb phone so i cant read like hd videos and such

You said you have a 6.7 oil drain correct? The 6.7 drains into the rear freeze plug where our stock 24v ones are in the front freeze plug. Since you are using the 6.7 manifold the turbo is going to sit lower and further back then the stock 24v sits. Ill snap some pics to show you. Ill show how the coolant runs. :c:

Can you post them here? I am collecting parts for this swap.

is this a threaded port? can i put a plug in the front and thread into the back?

Are you talking about the freeze plug? If you are no its not. You simply tap it with a screw driver and hammer, you dont want it to fall into the oil pan, and push your new oil drain down in. The O-ring on the drain seals against the block and the pressure from the turbo is more than enough to keep it in there and tight.

you should really get some pictures bucease i am cunfused on whats going on..... it doesnt help i cant see my truck right now.. ok so i will be doing the same thing my turbo is doing now but into the rear port not the front?

Correct. Ill snap pics today and email them to you

alright this is all coming together.... i have the stuff today i have been told that it is sitting on my porch now! so ill be able to look at is all! the pictures will be great to ill be able to accualy see how this is going together. i would like to know though what sould i use for the inter cooler side of things? i have a 3" body lift so i will already have a 3" diffrence in the wrong derection..

Your charge pipe should be interesting then. A 3inch lift will bring your intercooler inlet higher which isnt really a bad thing. You are going to just have to fab something up if your handy with the welder or have someone else fab one up.

im good, i can weld, ill figur it out, but i feel dumb now.... i have a 5.9 cr down pipe and a 351 vgt turbo in front of me and i cant put the pieces together....:argh:
but im soo happy i got everything other than the controler:tu:
oh can i put the turbo on and just let it run with out a controler? i would hope there would be a spring making it stuck wide open and then i could see how it would handle my egts?

Why wont the downpipe fit the turbo? And no you cant. The vanes are controlled electronically and if the turbo isnt getting a signal about throttle position and rpm then the vanes dont move. There isnt a spring. Its an electronic actuator. :c:

yes i was talking for a temperary use... i was saying so i could hook every thing up while the fleece controler is on the way... i wanted to knoe if i do hook it up will it stay open so i can drive my truck or will it bonce around? i want it stuck at 26cm witch is all the way open so i can drive it for about a week. but thats not important i cant figur out the down pipe... belled end at the turbo right? what clamps them together? and is there any mods i have to do to it to make it work?

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i figured it out!!1 i dont have the elbow that is supose to be on the back of the 351 vgt turbo! how do i get it?

You and Jared (H.R.D) have the same problem. Since you are going to run a 6.7 manifold you will need to get that elbow. Otherwise you could run your stock manifold with a HX40 downpipe and an adapter to the dp and the manifold. Its not recommended to drive the truck without the controller. Your truck wont build boost and it will be horrible to drive. You run the risk of sticking the turbo open too. :c:

ok sounds like ill wait. so were to get the elbow? and how much?

Ebay, junk yard. That elbow shouldnt be too expensive.

basicly at this point i under stand how to run
exhaust
oil
coolant i am still a little fuzzy can you please send pictures
and charge pipe ans intake pipe are going to be some home made beautys

i tried sending them to your email but it said unable to deliver. Have a different one?

smorgan@elhisco.com <-- rather use this one
or
scottmorgan1309@gmail.com

both work though
thanks!

Alright just sent the email again to both. Hopefully u get it.

alright i get it! so you ran from your heating core return to the top of the turbo then from the bottom of th turbo back to the original metal return line located under the manifold
i have to get the 6.7 oil line to... i thought i had it but i have the water lines... next step getting vgt controller!

No I just ran heater hose back to where the return line entered the bottom of the radaitor. I removed the metal line completely. I want to look at a 6.7 again and see how hard it would be to run a setup similar ot that. Would have to get more 6.7 parts though...:humm:

i think i am going to run from my block to the top of the turbo and then the bottom of the turbo to the inlet on the heating core that way i get the turbo heat in my cab in the winter so i would run it like yoiu did othere than im going to run into the supply line insted of the return line. oh another Q, how did you plug you old oil return? i was thinking of using the plug out of the other hole. and how do i get out the old plug i dont want to nock it in my block....

gently tap it with a screw driver. You can reuse it. I an thinking of re-routing my coolant lines. I dont like they the way the drain comes out then goes up over the oil filter. :c:

the way i am doing it you would ot have that. you would run your hose from th top of the head to the turbo then you would run from the bottom of your turbo to your fre wall keeping all the heat way from the hose and alowing the turbo + the engine heat to heat your core for a faster heat up in the winter. does the vane in side turn or just slid in and out?

this video shows how the vain works inside. Its from Fleece when they were developing the controller for the he351ve :c:

right on so why does it requiree water? that dont matter but it does.. ill let yoiu know how my water runnig goes. i wanna hook this up now but got to wait for the controler... by the way what is that shinny thing in your cab?

The coolant is required to cool the electronics. What shiny thing ?

look at your picktures of the controler knob there is a big shinny lever?

so where sould i get my rubber boots? i messured and found thath it is 2-3/4" off the turbo and 3" pipe. i want to use my stock inter cooler boot and use 3" exhaust with hommade bends to the turbo but where can i find a 2-3/4" to 3" 45* elbow boot?

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have an idea!!!

what about 3" silicone hose with a 2.75"-3" boot addapter

i would take and put the 2.75""-3" 45* boot on the turbo and then run a 2" long piece of3" (for a joint) then run the silicone hose to a 2" long piece of 3" tube (for a joint) to my inter coller boot!

You talking about the switch below the knob? Thats the exhaust brake switch.

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Go to silicone intakes.com. Thats where I got my boots.

ok i found the rubber boot i need. were can i get 3" flexable line that will with stand 40psi?

I dont know of any. You still have your old pipes right? Your stockers are still on the truck?

yes they are. i am thinking of using it and just cutting and welding to make it work that way i can buy the boot and be done buying shit.