Hey all,

I have a question I hope someone can answer for me. When I rebuilt my 1996 12v Cummins I bottomed tapped all the head bolt holes in the block and installed head studs. (No sealer applied on the stud threads) Now I have a slight bit of oil wetting the head stud nuts on three studs. The studs that are leaking are on the passenger side of the engine, between the 4th and 5th cylinders and are the medium length studs. (Second row of studs away from the exhaust manifold) Is this a head gasket issue or could oil be finding its way up through the head stud threaded hole? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Check your valve cover gaskets and make sure its not leaking down from there. I have never heard of them letting oil up along the studs.

 

Ok, thanks. Unfortunately it's not leaking from anywhere else. I might have waited too long before re torquing my head studs; hope I didn't blow the head gasket.

 

I would re torque them and make sure you follow the pattern and torque them evenly. Then shoot them with some brake cleaner to clean everything up and just really watch where its coming from. Did you re surface the head or block during the rebuild?

 

just curious if u have the new uptated arp studs that require the rocker arm pedastol to b machined for clearence?

 

Yes the head was worked, it was surfaced which the machine shop said they barley touched it. I machined the valve covers to clearance the studs. The engine only has about 1000 miles on the rebuild so everything is very clean making it easy to see where the studs are leaking. They definitely needed a retorque when I did it.

 

Hope that helps then let us know.

 

From what I have learned the only way the head stud could leak is with a compromised gasket. The lesson learned is re-torque your studs at the appropriate time, I was so busy tuning the transmission controller I didn't realize. Looks like I will be doing the head gasket. What really stinks is the 12v is in a 2007 Ford Super Duty and there won't be enough room to pull the head. I was thinking of lifting the cab several inches to get the room needed but I have never done that. I don't know how involved it would be but I would guesses it would be easier then pulling the motor. Anyone have any tips or tricks on how to lift the cab about six inches?

 

iv had to do it on acouple 6.4s. it isnt as bad as u think. if u have a lift. just disconnect all plugs. power steering an hydro boost lines if they arnt long enough. steering shaft. maybe ac. chock the wheels. position lift on each corner of cab an go a inch at a time. an of course shift linkage. maybe e brake cable. an alot of time the carriage nuts just spin an u have to cut them. an strap the cab to the lift arms so it cant shift or move. then when ur done u can just lower it back to where it was without having to try to move anything around. hope this helps good luck.

 

Thanks Flatbedr. I looked at it today and it doesn’t seem too bad. I don't have a lift, so that will be a little more challenging. I only have to lift it six inches or so. I was planning on using floor jacks and safety stands. I’m sure people that install body lifts must do it a similar way. Maybe someone will chime in that has done something similar without a lift.