Biggest issue I see with no plate is fuel control at points in the RPM range where it is needed most. On top, plate or no plate is virtually the same (if you are using a ground plate that is). On the bottom end is where the issues start to play, as you are running full pump ramp at all times.

I'm of a mind that a person should know the use they intend for the truck, decide whether making smoke (and resulting economy issues) is what they are after, or not, then decide on a plate to match (or not).

I chose a #10 for my own truck as I really don't want all the smoke and fuel use at all times, and I am quite happy. Others have made other choices and are equally happy. The best thing is that this is not one of those irreversible issues. You can run a plate or not in a few minutes of time, so try it out and see what you think.

Just remember that the more fuel you add the more parts you need to go with that fuel. Start with a transmission build, gauges, then add air (intake and exhaust), then finally do fueling mods. Any other order and you'll end up costing yourself more money in the long run.

 

4000 plus and no plate.

 

i got 20k no plate
the only problem ive heard off with run away is the gov arm getting stuck under the plate
but i was told that no plate and no afc can cause the gov shaft to wear out

 

there is no way for the gov arm to just "get stuck" under the fuel plate.
no plate will not wear anything out. and a p-pump wont work at all without an afc. mabey this will help.

 

A ppump will work just fine without an afc

 

Yea, the pump works great without an afc. Tuning to the right foot then...

 

no plate is great if you dont mind smoke 4000 no plate but you must take the afc arm off for it to work correctly.

 

Explain why it wouldnt work correctly with a foot...

 

yes please do....because wont it move out of the way even without a plate??
Thanks
Justin

 

correct