Im only giving you a semi educated guess here - but the standard trans should hold maybe 100 hp more than the auto but you will still slip the clutch (someone correct me if Im wrong here).

 

Have you alreadystraight piped it and air intake on it? That all I have Dow and get better milage and more power

 

Because tahoes are rwd high-revving high-hp v8's. But I promise you that your slow *** cummins would pull 30k lbs easy as pie and that tahoe is gonna struggle pulling 15k lbs. A few mods and you'll be running circles around any tahoe.

Lets put it this way. Anything more than a bhaf and straight pipe, your gonna tear your auto up.

General rule of thumb, more power on a diesel= better mileage on a diesel.

Yes a plate and afc ff WILL tear up the auto.

The standard will hold up to a plate and afc 3/4 and plate 3/4 forward. Put them full forward and that clutch is gonna start slipping in the higher rpms. And the more you slip it the faster its gonna go.

In the meantime to saving up for an auto trans rebuild or your 5spd+good clutch swap, do a bhaf 2729 filter from fleetfilter.com, and a straight pipe exhaust. check all your fluids and fuel filter. That will help with mileage and power.

Then after doing the trans, grab an egt, boost (and if auto trans.. a trans temp gauge). Then get a good plate (dependant upon which trans and pump you have), put it full forward, put the afc full forward, get a 35psi boost elbow and call it a day. If you want more, get some sdx 90hp sticks THEN call it a day.

Oh and maybe an hx40 hehe

 

x2 on the stock tranny wont hold much more.. i have the mods in my sig and as soon as the turbo light and boost goes past 20psi it is slipping the tc. if you dont have the money to play dont! i am young also so i understand but driving the truck slow is alot better then breaking it and not having thcoin to fix it and then you cant drive it at all.. my trans is getting done in a few weeks and it is costing $4000. luckly i have a company truck also so i didnt have to drive my cummins much or the tranny prob would not of held as long as it did ... just trying to help u learn from my f*ck ups.

 

nope havent yet

I just asked about everything done in the truck, it has a larger aluminum trans. sump and a TC in it, the injector pump was also replaced and thats it for engine parts.

My father had one only it was the 3500 dually, did all the mods with a 4" straight to a 5" stack. It was his welding truck and that thing was HEAVY. I dont remember him having any issues with it either. Maybe he just got lucky!

 

Here's the mods you should make....

1) First you want to turn up the trans. Pull the pan on the tranny, then on one side of the valve body there are some allen adjustment screws. Turn the one in the upper left corner 3 1/2 turns CCW. That will raise your line pressure 10 psi. Then turn the allen screw with the spring on it 2 1/2 turns CW. That will raise your light throttle shift point 200rpm. Put on a new filter then the pan. You trans will now hold the following mods. NOTE: This only works if your trans is in good shape. If it's already on it's way out, don't do any of these mods.

2) Then on your pump you want to add a #6 plate and 3k governer springs.

3) Add the boost elbow set for 30-35 psi to your turbo.

4) Add the BHAF of your choice.

That's going to add 75-100hp and make your truck feel completely different. Total cost is about $200.

If you want to go further, get out your wallet!

 

i have never heard of this before, the truck has 151k on it and the trans IS acting strange... at a specific speed it switches gears back and forth like it cant make up its mind. What is the extra 10psi for anyways?

 

The erratic shifting is probably your Throttle Position Sensor getting old. You can check that with a volt meter. Buy a service manual that will explain positions and voltages.

The extra 10psi of pressure will give your trans a little more holding power. That's about the limit with a stock 47rh though, much more pressure than that and you'll blow seals. I probaby have a pic of the side of the valve body somewhere, if you need it.

 

all these little things that can be done with minimal cash... i dont see why its not done from the factory.... the extra 200rpm is just to keep the turbo spooled up right?

 

It's not done from the factory because
1.) Warranty; it's easier to warranty a drastically cut-back motor than a hi-perf motor.
2.) The "average" consumer wants a smooth, quiet, dependable ride.
3.) Emissions.

No the extra 200rpms on the trans is for light throttle shifting. Suppposed to help gear searching a bit I believe.