well intake, exhaust, slide your stock plate FF, mod your afc, set the afc full back, and take your timing to 15-16*.

Oh and a set of gauges would not hurt.

 

Oh ok hold out until now haha. ive done a ton of reading on the plates and afc, its really just the timing im clueless about. Oh, the afc mods are only allowing the full movement of the linkage right? the movement of the plate is just gonna compensate for the modded barrel or is that completely different?
sorry for al the questons, just a young avid motorhead.

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whats up with te turbo ring as well??

 

the plate acts as a throttle stop, when the gov arm clears the afc foot it will contact the plate. Modding the afc will allow for max rack travel that you plate will allow.

As for the timing use the search function and look up timing, there have been many how to's on that. The turbo ring really does not help for performance it will just make the turbo louder.

I'm also a young motorhead myself 22 years

 

i wouldnt put the plate FF unless you have money to buy a new tranny, plate ff will tear up a stock tranny

 

I think he will be ok with the stock plate FF.

 

I know it has been said but I will echo what was already said to you....

If you do not have the cash to ensure the job being done correctly then leave it stock until you can allow for the issues the added power brings upon you.As for timing,if you hvae never done timing on a Cummins,then I would reccomend going to a shop that has and having them do it as its not a job for a beginner.Also remember that added timing will add more strain to your auto,especially if its the original as you stated it was.

IMO,leave it alone,have the timing checked to ensure its where it should be at from the factory and as time and money allows then make the changes that fit your wallet.

 

The 5.9 12V Cummins ARE dogs from the factory. With only a 2000 rpm redline, and seriously de-tuned fuel and air wise, they just don't run like a gasser truck at all. Glug, glug, glug, and shift. Repeat. Takes all day to get up to 65 mph, and 70 is almost redline on the tach depending on your gear ratio. Make the mods, gain the rpm, fueling, and turbo spool, and you wake up a monster -- IF -- you can get the power to the ground, and the stock transmission just will NOT do that -- period.

Fuel and air mods can be done with a stock transmission, except that once you have them done, you'll want to put your foot into it WAY more often, and that is when they go boom.

The stock transmission cannot take much more power. It CAN take more rpm, however, so perhaps for you -- for drivability sake -- may want to start with a 3000 GSK (governor spring kit). Cost is low (about $125) and results are immediate, with fueling to 3200 RPM instead of just 2200. That alone makes the truck work better on the street.

With a decent valve body kit and a single plate billet torque converter, you can probably add a fuel plate (I like my #10 plate from eBay) and a turbo orfice to bump boost. Timing to 16* is also a good mod. My truck runs SO much better with that done.

As to setting the timing, there are two ways to go -- one involves a lot of specialty tools that will run you close to $300.00 before you touch a wrench to the truck. That way involves pulling the #1 delivery valve off the pump and inserting a dial indicator into a specialy tool designed for the job. Timing is measured with the dial indicator. This is a very precision method of setting timing, and the most recommended way. The second method involves using a pointer wire aimed at your harmonic balancer, and after loosening the pump gear (have to do this in both cases) you rotate the engine counter-clockwise until the harmonic balancer moves 3/8". That equals the amount of degrees needed to set timing at 16* overall.

There are instructions to set timing at Geno's Garage in their technical section. Check them out.

 

Ok so my guess is the t-converter is what the weak point of this transmission is. For now ill do those mild mods until ive gotten enough to fix the tranny issues. Going back to the standard i may be getting.... How well will this hold?

 

5 speed will handle more power than an auto but you will need an ungraded clutch. Also, swapping in a standard is not cheap - if money is an issue, and it appears to be.

If your adding any fuel - a pyrometer and boost gauge (at minimum) is the first step

 

i can do the swap, its the obtaining of objects that is the hard part. Will it hold a significant amount more making it more worth it?