Don't ever torque your head hot I don't care who says what.

 

This comes right off the instructions if you wanna Argue with me

HEAD STUD RETORQUE PROCEDURE
1. Leave valve cover off, start truck and let run until it reaches operating temperature.
2. Retorque HOT ENGINE, first retorque only: STD studs to 120#, 12mm HD – 130#, 14mm XHD studs 150#
3. Check valves, re-adjust if necessary. Refer to service manual for valve adjustment spec
4. FOR BEST RESULTS: RETORQUE COLD ENGINE ONLY after 200 miles on street driven or after first competition
run. Check periodically after that, retorque as needed.

 

i would go with o-rings personally. i have also heard firerings tend to act kinda funny and o-rings are better for a DD. when you add studs and o-rings its pretty solid. i also agree that you shouldnt torque the head when its warm. heat expands things and what not.

 

sorry i haven't been on in a wile... i wasn't talking about my 1st gen, i have a 2nd gen engine for a project truck. thanks to everyone for the input looks like I'll o-ring the head for now if i pop the head gasket, I'll just surface the o- ring grooves out and fire ring it if the head doesn't get too thin. again thanks to all

 

70psi is insane on a daily driver anyway

 

i talked to a few local shops that do both o rings and fire rings. they said that the problem with using fire rings as a daily driver was fixed, they said that used to be a problem, but that they changed something and now alot of people that had them fire ringed at their shops are having good luck as dd. but im pry gunna still o ring mine

 

The new design helps but they still don't like heat cycles.

 

Nah, 70 psi is a fun DD

 

70psi is fun as a daily driver
them garrets scream when a 23cm housing spools it right up

 

how much sooner is your spool up since you swaped housings?