View Poll Results: What should I do with my blow-by ridden motor?
Swap for a junkyard motor and do basic mods
2
15.38%
Rebuild the motor with hi-perf parts
11
84.62%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
Rebuilding motor with badass parts vs. putting in used motor from junkyard?
#31
04-20-2010, 12:12 PM
Diesel Wrench
have a compression test ran, thats the best way to determint the condition of the cylinders,
and if do put new rings in it just buy the bearings for it, i dont see the bearings costing more than $150 for both sets, when the caps are taken off and the old bearings are put in you risk the chance off spinning it, if you talk to the mechanic they can probably pull the pistons out from the bottem without pulling the motor out of the truck,
and if do put new rings in it just buy the bearings for it, i dont see the bearings costing more than $150 for both sets, when the caps are taken off and the old bearings are put in you risk the chance off spinning it, if you talk to the mechanic they can probably pull the pistons out from the bottem without pulling the motor out of the truck,
#33
04-20-2010, 12:48 PM
#34
04-20-2010, 01:15 PM
Diesel Bomber
have a compression test ran, thats the best way to determint the condition of the cylinders,
and if do put new rings in it just buy the bearings for it, i dont see the bearings costing more than $150 for both sets, when the caps are taken off and the old bearings are put in you risk the chance off spinning it, if you talk to the mechanic they can probably pull the pistons out from the bottem without pulling the motor out of the truck,
and if do put new rings in it just buy the bearings for it, i dont see the bearings costing more than $150 for both sets, when the caps are taken off and the old bearings are put in you risk the chance off spinning it, if you talk to the mechanic they can probably pull the pistons out from the bottem without pulling the motor out of the truck,
Take a look under the truck and ask yourself would I rather attempt pulling them from the bottom, or will I take the 2 motor mounts that are left out and just pull the rest of the motor.
You will need to lift the motor to get the oil pan anyway which means the only thing left holding the motor in will me the 2 mounts ... way easyer to just pull the whole thing.
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#35
04-20-2010, 03:56 PM
When you put your foot on the pedal and start it, it starts up and hammers on the bearings before they have gotten any oil pumped through them. The only oil that is there is residual.
When you keep your foot off of it and turn it over, there is less load on the bearings before the oil gets pumped back to them.
Using a FULL synthetic oil helps dry starts extremely, where regular dyno oil shears at like 300psi, full synthetic shears at like 8000psi. You can easily make 300psi of force starting a big diesel, but 8000psi sounds a lot better protection to me. Once running with full oil pressure, I don't think the synthetic is a whole lot better, but dry starts is where its at. That being said, I don't run full synthetic because of the expense of changing it so often but If I had some of those real good bypass filters and could run my oil for 15k, then I'd run full synthetic, but 3k mi and 3 gal per change gets expensive.
I would really be suprised if your truck has excessive blowby. I would bet its just fine.
Now, if you ran it out of oil, the bearings might be toast and depending on how long you ran it, the crank, cam, lifters, etc might also. A good oil analysis might be able to tell you, like mentioned above. Other than that, they need to pull the pan and pull a main or rod cap off and look.
When you keep your foot off of it and turn it over, there is less load on the bearings before the oil gets pumped back to them.
Using a FULL synthetic oil helps dry starts extremely, where regular dyno oil shears at like 300psi, full synthetic shears at like 8000psi. You can easily make 300psi of force starting a big diesel, but 8000psi sounds a lot better protection to me. Once running with full oil pressure, I don't think the synthetic is a whole lot better, but dry starts is where its at. That being said, I don't run full synthetic because of the expense of changing it so often but If I had some of those real good bypass filters and could run my oil for 15k, then I'd run full synthetic, but 3k mi and 3 gal per change gets expensive.
I would really be suprised if your truck has excessive blowby. I would bet its just fine.
Now, if you ran it out of oil, the bearings might be toast and depending on how long you ran it, the crank, cam, lifters, etc might also. A good oil analysis might be able to tell you, like mentioned above. Other than that, they need to pull the pan and pull a main or rod cap off and look.
Or a 4th option; stuck with Ford!
#37
04-20-2010, 06:50 PM
Diesel Fan
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Stillwater, Ok.
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#38
04-20-2010, 07:40 PM
#39
04-20-2010, 08:10 PM
You can put modern synthetics in any engine of any mileage. I doubt it will help your blowby any, but I'd run it thicker than the standard 10-40 if I had a really worn out engine. 20-50 would be good probably, but whatever you run you have keep an eye n the oil pressure gauge....another reason you need gauges in your truck.
#40
04-20-2010, 09:01 PM
