5.9L 12V Performance Discussion of 12 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with P7100 Injection Pumps Related to Performance and Longevity

Turbo Bark

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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 08:48 AM
  #11  
turbo2332's Avatar
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do you have a boost elbow or anything on your turbo? that might help things. you very well may have a weak wastegate. DONT run likethis just use it as a test but block the wastegate off and see how it acts going it OD under a load. please dont try it at WOT just the normal 25psi you see from day to day and see if that doesnt make the big chug go away.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:03 AM
  #12  
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All I have is in my sig. I've done nothing to the turbo but take out the silencer ring, and it was already doing it for years before I did that and it didn't make any difference when I did. With this mileage, I'm open to the possibility of just about anything being weak.
Like I said, it only barks going into OD if I'm at or very near WOT. I very seldom go over 15psi unless I'm pulling something, I'm a pretty conservative driver. The most I've ever seen on my boost gauge is about 28-29psi, 25psi is pretty close to that. Probably close enough to bark. I suppose I could try blocking the waste gate. If it does get rid of the problem though, why wouldn't I want to keep running it that way?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:42 AM
  #13  
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monster amounts of drive pressure. its a fast way to eat a turbo. im trying to fiqure out if it is a wastegate problem, thats why i mention doing this. if the problem goes away i would invest in a $10 boost elbow and trick your weak gate (if it is) so it doesnt chatter and blead off pressure too soon.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #14  
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Hmm... indeed. I've been meaning to get a boost elbow anyway at some point, this would be as good an excuse as any.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #15  
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run it with the elbow at 32-35psi see if it still falls on its face. may be time for a bit more fuel to keep it in boost aswell. maybe get some 3k gov springs while your ordering things.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 10:27 AM
  #16  
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I was waiting on any further engine mods for pyro/egt gauges. Also, I thought I'd do the VB/TC upgrades first and see how much difference it makes on a stock truck just having decent line pressures and a TC that doesn't bleed off most of the power it's already making most of the time. I'm pretty sure that if this stupid slushbox wasn't chronically slipping through the first three gears it would feel about 100% stronger with no other engine mods, at least around town. I'd like to do a lockup switch, but I'm afraid of grenading the stock trans. It's only a year old, but I do quite a bit of towing.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #17  
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do not do a lock-up switch you will break things mark that off of your list. its like shifting with no clutch in a manual. only plus is engine braking. dont do it.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 11:20 AM
  #18  
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Back to the TC/VB then. As I said, I can't even use what power this engine is already making as it sits. I'm sure this 12V is pretty stout at the flexplate, but most of that power never gets anywhere near the pavement so I doubt putting more power into that trans is going to do any good. Once the trans is actually able to hold something I'll start turning it up. I'm doing a tranny service/band adjustment this week sometime, so I'll be getting a look in there at the VB before ripping it apart, but my biggest holdup is finding a good price on a billet TC. Everyone talks about good cheap single discs, but nobody talks about where to get them.

And in the meantime I'm losing some sleep over the horrible turbo bark every time it goes into OD under a good load. I'll try plugging the waste gate tomorrow morning if I can figure out where/how and see if it makes a difference, but it really doesn't sound to me like my bark is happening under the conditions you're saying would cause it. It feels/sounds to me like the turbo is trying to push all that boost into something that has suddenly stopped accepting it, so it rebounds and slams into the turbine, which is what I thought a BOV was supposed to keep from happening. The difference in rpms in this trans between drive and OD is just... retarded.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 11:25 AM
  #19  
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that is what a BOV does but in 99% of cases you dont need one. leave the baby out of OD when you are pulling to and if it slips from 1 thru 4 the clutches are fried.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #20  
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It was a brand new trans/TC/coolers/etc from Chrystler last winter, the old one was exactly the same. It has always slipped in the first three gears, even with the OD off. The TC only locks in 4th gear, it just does it at a lower speed with the OD off, 25-35mph depending on the load, vs 45-55mph with it on.
 
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