NV-4500 rebuild
alrighty, so, you measured the end play with the bot-on cap installed and torqued on correctly (without sealant or locktite on the bolts of course), and it was .27"?
in that case, you need to add shims to the bearing race. your rebuild kit should have come with a selection of shims, which are placed on the bearing race, and then the endcap is bolted on, which presses the shims against the race, forcing the race against the bearing. tightly.
if you have .27" endplay with proper installation, you need more shimming.
Side note: I made mine pretty tight. .001". as low as my dial indicator would read. you have new bearings, new fluid, and likely new shafts (I had 3 new shafts. my whole guts are new). You'll be dropping the fluid at your next oil change anyway, since it'll be full of wear-in shavings from. . . everything. I'd set em tight. they'll wear in. if you get the chance, I'd check the clearances when you drop the fluid to change it after a few thousand miles. they'll likely need to be adjusted again. It's kinda like a motorcycle chain. they wear in very quickly initially, and then are good for a long while.
in that case, you need to add shims to the bearing race. your rebuild kit should have come with a selection of shims, which are placed on the bearing race, and then the endcap is bolted on, which presses the shims against the race, forcing the race against the bearing. tightly.
if you have .27" endplay with proper installation, you need more shimming.
Side note: I made mine pretty tight. .001". as low as my dial indicator would read. you have new bearings, new fluid, and likely new shafts (I had 3 new shafts. my whole guts are new). You'll be dropping the fluid at your next oil change anyway, since it'll be full of wear-in shavings from. . . everything. I'd set em tight. they'll wear in. if you get the chance, I'd check the clearances when you drop the fluid to change it after a few thousand miles. they'll likely need to be adjusted again. It's kinda like a motorcycle chain. they wear in very quickly initially, and then are good for a long while.
Last edited by Slim Whitey; Nov 13, 2014 at 11:17 PM.
Glad to hear it man! I know it's expensive, but make sure to get GL-4 gear lube, at least. GL-5 is corrosive to brass parts. like your synchros.
Castrol Syntorq is the "proper" stuff, but it's very expensive and difficult to find now.
Castrol Syntorq is the "proper" stuff, but it's very expensive and difficult to find now.
the Chrysler fluid is syntorq, just with a Chrysler part number. Chevy sells it too, and I think it's cheaper through Chevy. 
Glad she's working good. I really gotta get the GL-5 outta mine that I threw in for the first few thousand km of wear-in, before it completely eats my synchros off.
I'll get on finding out about those driveshafts tomorrow. Been a busy start to the week, and a very poor one at that. By the by, you should only need your rear one worked on, the front should not be bothered by the Gearvendor.
Glad she's working good. I really gotta get the GL-5 outta mine that I threw in for the first few thousand km of wear-in, before it completely eats my synchros off.
I'll get on finding out about those driveshafts tomorrow. Been a busy start to the week, and a very poor one at that. By the by, you should only need your rear one worked on, the front should not be bothered by the Gearvendor.
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