New truck need advice
#1
New truck need advice
Just bought 98 12 valve with some some mods....
150 hp injectors
.093 fuel line from haisley machining
full laser cut dvs
#0 fuel plate
airdog2 165 lift pump
apr head studs
Sun coast trans
64 mm super b special and 76 mm borg warner twin turbos
Issue is the turbos need rebuilt.
I was wondering if I should rebuild both turbos and run it like that or go with a decent sized single?
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Another thing is my fuel gauge don't work. Is it because of the airdog? If so how can I fix it?
150 hp injectors
.093 fuel line from haisley machining
full laser cut dvs
#0 fuel plate
airdog2 165 lift pump
apr head studs
Sun coast trans
64 mm super b special and 76 mm borg warner twin turbos
Issue is the turbos need rebuilt.
I was wondering if I should rebuild both turbos and run it like that or go with a decent sized single?
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Another thing is my fuel gauge don't work. Is it because of the airdog? If so how can I fix it?
#4
what about the fuel guage is it that doesn't work? No registry at all? Very erratic? Annoyingly inaccurate, but, consistent?
If a freshly-full tank will sometimes drop to "E", and the light and "ding-ding-ding" come on, only to suddenly return to "F" until it does it again, there's a simple fix that can be accomplished in just a couple of hours. Here's the nutshell version: Either drop the tank or raise the bed. Your choice, there. Remove the whole pickup/guage-sender/screen assembly. Detach the sender. Notice that it's rather a clever, but cheaply-made device. The part that's inexcusably cheap is the pivot upon which the sweep arm moves, in relation to the variable-resistance plate. The pivot allows the arm to sometimes lose contact with the plate, yielding that sudden, annoying "E" reading. Drill that piece of crap out, and replace it with a small-diameter stove-bolt, 1" - 1 1/2" long, an ink-pen spring (or similar) and sufficient washers to not be floppy. Stack and reassemble, in such a manner that the spring applies constant pressure to the sweep-arm. Since thread-lock might not live long under constant Diesel submersion, and since I'm a cheap bahhstad, I used a pair of pliers to slightly deform the bolt-threads behind the nut, in order to prevent it backing off. Re-install everything. Did mine 10 years ago, and haven't had trouble until very recently. Might have to do again, just to see if the spring is shot, or if the plastic has worn, or what.
If a freshly-full tank will sometimes drop to "E", and the light and "ding-ding-ding" come on, only to suddenly return to "F" until it does it again, there's a simple fix that can be accomplished in just a couple of hours. Here's the nutshell version: Either drop the tank or raise the bed. Your choice, there. Remove the whole pickup/guage-sender/screen assembly. Detach the sender. Notice that it's rather a clever, but cheaply-made device. The part that's inexcusably cheap is the pivot upon which the sweep arm moves, in relation to the variable-resistance plate. The pivot allows the arm to sometimes lose contact with the plate, yielding that sudden, annoying "E" reading. Drill that piece of crap out, and replace it with a small-diameter stove-bolt, 1" - 1 1/2" long, an ink-pen spring (or similar) and sufficient washers to not be floppy. Stack and reassemble, in such a manner that the spring applies constant pressure to the sweep-arm. Since thread-lock might not live long under constant Diesel submersion, and since I'm a cheap bahhstad, I used a pair of pliers to slightly deform the bolt-threads behind the nut, in order to prevent it backing off. Re-install everything. Did mine 10 years ago, and haven't had trouble until very recently. Might have to do again, just to see if the spring is shot, or if the plastic has worn, or what.
#6
#7
Just talked to a buddy and his worry is that it is more than just the turbo. The problem is the exhaust is spitting out oil ... My stacks have oil all over them from the hour drive back to my place. It took 4 quarts to fill back up it was 70 mph the whole way almost. Currently it is routed so the big turbo just has exhaust side hooked up and the small turbo is running to intercooler. And there is oil all spitting out of the big one on to pass side fender. And me being an idiot forgot to check the blow by I'm gonna check in the morning when I can see better. It runs like a champ though! So I hope it's just a bad turbo.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Blow by is good! Just a bad turbo!
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Blow by is good! Just a bad turbo!
Last edited by Torquepower; 03-27-2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
Just bought 98 12 valve with some some mods....
150 hp injectors
.093 fuel line from haisley machining
full laser cut dvs
#0 fuel plate
airdog2 165 lift pump
apr head studs
Sun coast trans
64 mm super b special and 76 mm borg warner twin turbos
Issue is the turbos need rebuilt.
I was wondering if I should rebuild both turbos and run it like that or go with a decent sized single?
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Another thing is my fuel gauge don't work. Is it because of the airdog? If so how can I fix it?
150 hp injectors
.093 fuel line from haisley machining
full laser cut dvs
#0 fuel plate
airdog2 165 lift pump
apr head studs
Sun coast trans
64 mm super b special and 76 mm borg warner twin turbos
Issue is the turbos need rebuilt.
I was wondering if I should rebuild both turbos and run it like that or go with a decent sized single?
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Another thing is my fuel gauge don't work. Is it because of the airdog? If so how can I fix it?
#9
#10
does that mean yours are for sale? if thats the case, im interested. I could even part trade on a low mile aurora 3k, but it might be a bit small for you.