Hello all,
Newbie to the forum, Ive been having some issues with my 03 that has me, and many others stumped. Pardon me for being long winded, but wanted to get it all out.

It starts just fine when cold, not plugged in, no smoke, normal high idle is activated when ambient temp is cold enough and has good power when not up to opperating temp. Once the truck gets to around 160 is when the issues begin....
1. the idle will hang at 1100 and can be brought down by engaging the clutch in gear, or simply turning the steering wheel to slightly load the motor. it does this even when @ normal eng. temp. and warm ambient temp.
2. the truck will stall out when a load is put on the motor and cannot be started for at least one minute, then it will start.
3. when warmed up I can shut the truck off and emediately try to start it and it wont start unless I wait a minute, then it will start.
4. today I noticed that while it began to reach the 160 degree mark and the normal high idle was activated (cold outside) that it began to have a lope in the idle and began to smoke just a bit. after it reached normal temp (190) it got worse and flubbed out and died.
NO CODES SHOWING.


Without going into too much detail I will list a few things that HAVE BEEN tried...
1. new lift pump
2. new FCA
3. new crank position
4. dropped fuel tank and inspected fuel pickup.. fine
5. swapped APP or throttle posotion
6. new ignition switch
7. rail pressure is fine when problem exists.
8. injector flow tested fine.
9. checked battery temp sensor, map sensor, ambient air sensor, and eng temp sensor.
10 new thermostat, coolant full, no fuel in coolant or oil, idle is smooth until it warms up, then its a little rough.

Any input would be appreciated. thnx!

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Guess nobody here knows???

 

You'll have to have a proper scan tool hooked to the truck and replicate the problem, if its not throwing a code w/e it is, is an active fault (not being logged) I saw something MAC tools came out with about 2 years ago. Its a little plug in thing that sits in your OBDII port while you drive and it basically records your ECM info. Mainly developed for those intermittent problems that never seem to show up when you want them to. What usually took someone sitting in the passenger seat watching the scan tool/lap top can now be done by yourself. Dunno if the tool took off and hit big or not, but it might be worth looking into. Plus; next time it stalls and before you kill the key, try looking at the codes. Might yield better results. Personally sounds almost like a "limp mode"


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Pardon my ignorance, but what exactly would be the limp mode? I will look into the scan tool. I do have a obdII scanner and it doesnt show anything even during or after the problem exists. thnx!

 

Did you pull injectors and have them tested somewhere or did you do a return flow test? If you did return flow what exact amount of fuel did you get? What was the rail press. actual and desired set points when its acting up? Sounds like you need injectors to me.

 

A friend of mine had the scan tool to read the rail pressure from the comp. and he said it was within the required specs while it was running and acting up, and it had enough pressure while cranking. He also did the flow test and said it was fine but i dont know what the exact ml was. I will try the flow test again as well as an ohm test.I do have another used set of injectors that I am getting tested. I checked the rail pressure relief valve and there was fuel there but it was after a test drive so not sure if it was activated during the drive.
I also found the supply line from the cp3 to the rail appeared to be leaking and when removed I found the tip to be pitted on that end so I cleaned it up the best I could and put it back on... no sign of a leak and didnt fix the problem.
The injector supply lines dont appear to be leaking.
Also when warm and acting up I can shut it off and immediately crank it over again and it will start, but if i wait more than a second then i have to wait at least a minute before it will start.
Thanks

 

By limp mode, I meant it keeps the truck from doing anything that could possibly harm your engine.


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And I meant no disrespect saying "proper scan tool" i kind of assumed it was advance or autozones code reader which suck for lack of better terms.


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How bout the rail pressure sensor, and the pressure relief valve? The PRV would be easy to check. Just remove the banjo bolt from the top, and if there is fuel present, or it leaks past, in your case, probably a small amount (mentioned that the rail pressure was good while cranking), it'll need replaced.

 

No worries Tower O Power I hear ya cluckin.
Wild Bill, We swapped the rail pressure sensor just in case, that was something i didnt mention earlier, sorry, along with the computer, both were from another running 03.
In my reply to the Miller Boyz I had checked the banjo bolt on the PRV and there was fuel there but it was after a test drive. Should that be checked only after it has been at idle only?

 

With the engine off, remove the bolt, then crank the engine or start it. That'll give you a better eye on how good, or bad it is.