With a good front end and a good maintenance history, I'd say you are probably good to go. Couple things I would recommend to start out with tho, especially since you are going to be working it hard, is remove the Predator and install a few gauges. That way you will have a baseline to get to know the truck with. Nothing like extra variables to deal with if/when problems crop up.

 

I would love to remove the chip and bring it back to stock and install fuel pressure, boost and EGT gauges. How do I remove the chip completely and just run a stock tune like it was never chipped?

Smarty would be the chip I would go with after I make sure the truck is good to go.

 

Well if he is referring to the predator, then it is a plug in tuner (like the smarty). So your best bet would be to plug it in, reset set to stock, sell the pred and get a smarty or smarty jr.

Boost and pyro are good gauges at a min. If your going to play with rail pressure I would think of getting a rail pressure gauge.

 

Yes its a plug in thing. He keeps it under his back seat. Ok so its really easy to set it back to stock. THanks.

 

Well after an thurough lookover and some haggeling on the price I got a new (to me) truck yesterday. I thank you guys for the help on inspecting this thing. The truck needs a little work to make it my own but It seems to be in a very sound mechanical state. There is a rip in the drivers seat and it needs a good interior cleaning but other then that its in great shape. I plan on doing a valve adjust and changing EVERY fluid. Gonna run synthetic in the diffs and Tcase and the factory recomended fluid for the NV5600. As for motor oil lots of guys are running the Rotela T. Do the cummins motors like the Costco Dello 400? I will be doing the 2um fuel filter mod and run a Baldwin filter in the factory location.

The Preditor Diablo Sport tunner that came with it will most likely be removed and replaced with gauges so I can watch this thing a little closer and get a good base line. Then a Smarty may come later.

This thing feels like it has double the power as my old 7.3L! (cause it does) Its like driving a corvette without a trailer! Very excited to have a new truck.

 

Also, do these trucks use a speacial coolant or additive?

 

Biggest thing bout a cummins is check the front cover, rear main, ball joints i joints track bar ect ect. Cummins can take abuse pretty well. Depending on what progammer he had and what he used it for you may not have an issue about it at all. I have 223K on my 98 with all six originall injectors and tranny.

 

I also have the funky interm. wiper issue that seems to be common in almost every Dodge ram. All the threads I am finding on here and other forums seem to be over a year old. Is there any new cure for this? I am reading to check for any melting or shorting in the ignition switch and also the FCM controls the wipers and could be shorting or not grounding. It also could be a short in the wiper motor itself. Just wondering if there is a silver bullet fix for this yet?

 

They come from the factory with a HOAT coolant, like the Fords from 02+. No additive needed. Same thing as Zerex G-05


Oh FCMs, I went through 5 of those over about a year and a half...thank God for one year warranties. Sorry, wish I could be more helpful.

 

My wipers would sometimes come on when I put my lights on bright. And the blinkers would blink on the wrong side. I just took steering plastic off and unhooked the switch and has it all combined together and put some electrical grease on every lil connection point the plugged it back together. Been good ever since having to replace the first one.