Exactly, and you just posted misinformation but I'm not going to argue about it.

 

My 05 didn't like it either. I got it at the Spinx also, but in the upstate of SC near BMW on I-85. It was B20. But IIRC, at one time Cummins was only recommending a blend of no more than 5% for the newer trucks. I'll see if I can find that info.

 

well I just found out about a place around here that has a tank of b100, im gonna see if i can get my hands on some next year when it warms up.

 

I've used b10 in my equipment a few times it does use more fuel than dino.

 

I've been running B20 in in mine for about three months. I haven't had any problems with it. It seems to idle a little quieter on the bio than on dino. I'm not running a bunch of power mods, so I can't tell you if it has made any difference. As for the reply about the film- Bio is a cleaning agent that will send contaminants left by dino fuel through your fuel system, usually clogging your fuel filter. I have heard people say that bio will leave a parraffin residue inside fuel components, but I haven't found this to be true. I have some friends in north carolina that run a sawmill. Every piece of their equipment runs on bio. They have never had any problems with a residue buildup caused by bio. The most common problem they have is the bio attacking rubber fuel components and seals in older trucks and equipment (like their forklifts). They run B100 in their equipment and dillute it down to maybe B50 in winter.

 

perhaps its the rubber being "corroded" that is leaving the residue?

 

if you are running fuel lines and want to run bio in the future it might be a good idea to run compatible stuff in the first place. I got these off a couple biodiesel sites.

SAE 30R7 is the most common fuel hose

SAE 30R9 is replacing those at the stores and will handle biodiesel at B20-B50 no problem.

Non Compatible Materials (B100)
Elastomers:
Nitrile Rubber
Polypropylene
Polyvinyl
Tygon
Behavior: Elastomers not compliant may degrade, soften, swell or seep from connections. Typically this only becomes an issue in vehicles built before 1993, which have older rubber hoses.
Metals:
Brass
Bronze
Copper
Lead
Tin
Zinc
Behavior: These metals can accelerate oxidation of the fuel and create insoluble gels and sediments when exposed to Biodiesel and air.
Paints: Most oil-based non enamel paint will be degraded by Biodiesel. Spills should be cleaned immediately with soap and water.

Compatible Materials (B100):
Elastomers:
Teflon
Viton
EPDM
Fluorinated Plastic (i.e., Fluorinated Polyethylene, Fluorinated Polypropylene)
Nylon
Polyethylene (HDPE)
Silicone
Behavior: These materials can be used to transmit and store Biodiesel, this includes “red plastic” gasoline cans, polyethylene barrels and large plastic totes.
Metals:
Aluminum
Steel

Compatibility with B20:
No negative effects have been observed for elastomers and metals exposed to B20, which are compliant with petroleum diesel to begin with. Materials compatible with regular diesel should perform the same when used with B20.

 

I have been adding 2.5 gallons of Soy Gold Biodiesel that I get at my local Co-OP for $3.00/gallon. I have not seen any positives or negatives at this point with the way it runs. The reason I use it are because it 1) It is cheaper than dino right now 2) I have read that the ULSD does not have the lubricity of the old stuff and a little of the biodiesel will make up for that. The 2.5 gallons that I am adding equates to about 7%.

 

I'd take a look at your owners manual before running a CR engine on anything more than B20 (20% bio to 80% regular diesel) if you are still under warranty. Also, I seem to recall reading that some injector guys were seeing injector problems on motors that had run B100 in a CR, but honestly I can't remember if it was "home brew" or commercial grade B100 - which could make a difference in quality.

FWIW I've run between 5 and 20% mixes depending upon where I was buying fuel. No issues that I've noticed, except a decrease in MPG, but I suspect some of that is due to the winter blends where I've traditionally lost MPG anyway. I think I'd like my exhaust smelling like french fries that I've heard you get from running B100 homebrew waste oil conversion... But not enough to experiment with my CR motor. If I still had a 12V I'd be all over trying out B100.

 

I considered trying the bio but after looking at the cost and not seeing any difference I opted out, not to mention I considered the gasser running that E-85 stuff and hearing that mileage dropped off, figured if the Corn based E-85 did that then the flower based bio would mostly likely do the same. But I have to ask this WHY BIO???