getting ready to drop the pan and change the fluid/filter tomorrow. Is there a way to drain the torque converter other than droping the discharge line to the cooler and cranking the engine to pump it out? I thought I read somewere that there is a drain plug on the converter some where? If so, how many extra quarts for the converter? I read 6 for the filter change. Thanks.

 

TRANSMISSION FILL
To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1. Remove dipstick and insert clean funnel in transmission fill tube.
2. Add following initial quantity of MoparT ATF +4 to transmission:
a. If only fluid and filter were changed, add 3 pints (1-1/2 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
b. If transmission was completely overhauled, torque converter was replaced or drained, and cooler was
flushed, add 12 pints (6 quarts) of ATF +4 to transmission.
3. Apply parking brakes.
4. Start and run engine at normal curb idle speed.
5. Apply service brakes, shift transmission through all gear ranges then back to NEUTRAL, set parking brake, and
leave engine running at curb idle speed.
6. Remove funnel, insert dipstick and check fluid level. If level is low, add fluid to bring level to MIN mark on
dipstick. Check to see if the oil level is equal on both sides of the dipstick. If one side is noticably higher than
the other, the dipstick has picked up some oil from the dipstick tube. Allow the oil to drain down the dipstick tube
and re-check.
7. Drive vehicle until transmission fluid is at normal operating temperature.
8. With the engine running at curb idle speed, the gear selector in NEUTRAL, and the parking brake applied, check
the transmission fluid level.
CAUTION: Do not overfill transmission, fluid foaming and shifting problems can result.
9. Add fluid to bring level up to MAX arrow mark.
When fluid level is correct, shut engine off, release park brake, remove funnel, and install dipstick in fill tube.

 

i dont believe there is a drain plug on the TC... atleast not on the ones i've been around

 

Ok thanks fellas.

 

Evidently, the Mopar tranny engineers don't believe having over half the fluid remain unchanged in the converter, cooler and lines after a pan drop/filter change is a problem. I suppose that is OK as long as it gets done on a frequent enough schedule.

The stock filter is not that great of a filter. That's why I installed a Mag-Hytec pan and an external bypass filter. Our 48RE maintenance schedule now invloves a drain/re-fill with 9 quarts and external filter change at 30k. Pan drop along with internal filter every other service, or 60k between pan drops.

I just figured there's gotta be a better way.

 

I didn't get to change it yet, I was called out on another job yesterday before I could get to it. I am switching to the tractor hydraulic tranny fluid that I have been reading up on. Seems like a good alternative. I plan to install a drain plug in the pan when I do it so that I can drain it a couple more times over the next few thousand miles to try and get all the old fluid out.

 

I would stick to what's suppose to be in there and that is ATF+4. IDK where the hell someone got tractor hydraulic fluid, but they need a serious education. It doesn't have shiit for friction modifier and well, your transmission needs it.

 

stock tc doesent have one but i did a flush on mine friday morning and it was a 20 quart change to get all out

 

Ok, dropped the pan yesterday, changed filter and installed a drain plug from napa. Refilled with 5 quarts of Ambra G 134 tractor hydraulic transmission fluid ( New Holland brand ). Plan to drain fluid a couple more times over the next couple thousand miles to try and clean it up a little more. WOT shifts were still pretty sloppy, but idle and low rpm's were noticeably tighter so we shall see. I will let u know if any change.

 

That G134 is ASKING TO DESTROY A TRANSMISSION....PLAIN AND SIMPLE!
I dont care who runs it or why they run it. You'll have problems!
Only way to truly flush a 48RE is on a flush machine!