g56 shifter boot fixed
#1
The following 2 users liked this post by emp1134:
jengle (08-01-2011),
North Pole Hooker (07-27-2010)
#2
cv joint boot info
What did the cv joint come from that you used? Car, ATV? I have a g56 in my 2005 with a torn factory orange shift boot. Dealer wants too much to replace and was looking for an alternative fix. I was leaning towards a cv joint boot from an atv, but just started doing research when I found your post. This torn shift boot issue is big with the g56 and any information about what you used to fix yours would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#3
sorry for the delay, I used the Dorman Universal CV Joint Boot Kit for Outer Joints up to 3.58" diameter (614-001) Got it at Autozone(I think it was $20), you will have to ask them for it by the dorman part #614-001. I had to cut it down on the big end, and then stretch it over the base of the shifter. Then I used hose clamps to hold it all in place(see pic above)
The following users liked this post:
North Pole Hooker (07-27-2010)
#4
IT WORKS, GUYS!
I replaced my clutch and found mine ripped. Figured I'd change it out sooner or later, but I started REALLY smelling ATF+4 right after reinstalling the clutch. It was coming from that ripped shift tower boot!
I picked up this exact same Dorman CV Boot Unversal Kit (PN: 614-001) at our local Schucks' O'Reilley's up here in Fairbanks, Alaska for $16. I cut the lower two portions of the boot off, leaving the third, smallest ring on the bottom. Streatched it over the tower, and clamped it down with a hose clamp. Other than the upper end being just a bit bigger than I liked, I also clamped it down to the lever and it seems to be working like a champ.
In the 2006 manuals at the dealership it does not show a replacement boot. When I handed the parts guy a Dodge part number for it (5191985aa), it came up as a 2008 part number, but it WAS for the boot that we are all looking for. However, he still wanted $91 for it, and that was after asking really nicely and getting a military discount for it. For $16 vs $91, I can make it fit! The CV Boot is also MUCH stronger, and I can't see anything down there ever ripping it like the thin rubber Dodge part ripped. This is a super easy fix and extremely affordable, given your other options!
Pull the rubber cup-holded and tray sleeve out, remove three 8mm bolts from under the removed rubber pieces. Remove the cupholder plastic piece by lifting up and back (center armrest lower compartment opened up for wiggle room). Remove two more 8mm bolts that hold the forward portion of the console in, disconnect the upper shift boot from this piece and slide it up the shifter. Remove forward console portion out (it has two push-in tabs, one on the left side, and one directly aft of the shifter). Remove six 8mm bolts from the lower boot that screws into the cab bottom. Remove this boot by using a butter knife or screwdriver, as it will more than likely be semi-adhered to the flooring. All that's left is a split two-piece plastic heater duct that goes to the back seat that is simply pushed apart and removed as needed.
WHAALAA!! You now have access to that leaking shifter boot. It comes off really easy by prying up on the bottom. Clean everything up and replace that thin, leaking POS with the CV joint boot. Reassmble in reverse order.
While all of this center console crap is out, and you are replacing that boot, take all of your removed plastic and rubber pieces and go soak them in hot, soapy water! There will never be a better time to FINALLY get this stuff cleaned, as cleaning it while installed is a PITA! Heck, I even soaked and cleaned my heater ducts! Now, if only the rest of the truck was clean!
I replaced my clutch and found mine ripped. Figured I'd change it out sooner or later, but I started REALLY smelling ATF+4 right after reinstalling the clutch. It was coming from that ripped shift tower boot!
I picked up this exact same Dorman CV Boot Unversal Kit (PN: 614-001) at our local Schucks' O'Reilley's up here in Fairbanks, Alaska for $16. I cut the lower two portions of the boot off, leaving the third, smallest ring on the bottom. Streatched it over the tower, and clamped it down with a hose clamp. Other than the upper end being just a bit bigger than I liked, I also clamped it down to the lever and it seems to be working like a champ.
In the 2006 manuals at the dealership it does not show a replacement boot. When I handed the parts guy a Dodge part number for it (5191985aa), it came up as a 2008 part number, but it WAS for the boot that we are all looking for. However, he still wanted $91 for it, and that was after asking really nicely and getting a military discount for it. For $16 vs $91, I can make it fit! The CV Boot is also MUCH stronger, and I can't see anything down there ever ripping it like the thin rubber Dodge part ripped. This is a super easy fix and extremely affordable, given your other options!
Pull the rubber cup-holded and tray sleeve out, remove three 8mm bolts from under the removed rubber pieces. Remove the cupholder plastic piece by lifting up and back (center armrest lower compartment opened up for wiggle room). Remove two more 8mm bolts that hold the forward portion of the console in, disconnect the upper shift boot from this piece and slide it up the shifter. Remove forward console portion out (it has two push-in tabs, one on the left side, and one directly aft of the shifter). Remove six 8mm bolts from the lower boot that screws into the cab bottom. Remove this boot by using a butter knife or screwdriver, as it will more than likely be semi-adhered to the flooring. All that's left is a split two-piece plastic heater duct that goes to the back seat that is simply pushed apart and removed as needed.
WHAALAA!! You now have access to that leaking shifter boot. It comes off really easy by prying up on the bottom. Clean everything up and replace that thin, leaking POS with the CV joint boot. Reassmble in reverse order.
While all of this center console crap is out, and you are replacing that boot, take all of your removed plastic and rubber pieces and go soak them in hot, soapy water! There will never be a better time to FINALLY get this stuff cleaned, as cleaning it while installed is a PITA! Heck, I even soaked and cleaned my heater ducts! Now, if only the rest of the truck was clean!
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