Oil pre filters?
#13
steved,
A few questions is at what micron will that roll of paper towels filter down to? I read that the FS 2500 filters down to 2.78 microns or there about and Amsoil is down to 2 micron so how do you know what it will be for some paper towel roll or even the Franz TP roll you buy at some store? Also what brand grantees the paper they use will be the same every time you buy it to put in your filter housing? The paper towel or TP roll may be cheaper but do they filter as well or better then a by pass filter made to filter oil?
A few questions is at what micron will that roll of paper towels filter down to? I read that the FS 2500 filters down to 2.78 microns or there about and Amsoil is down to 2 micron so how do you know what it will be for some paper towel roll or even the Franz TP roll you buy at some store? Also what brand grantees the paper they use will be the same every time you buy it to put in your filter housing? The paper towel or TP roll may be cheaper but do they filter as well or better then a by pass filter made to filter oil?
#14
Rolls of TP and paper towels are reported to be effective to submicronic level...that's based off past particle count analysis. If you read most literature, anything below 5 micron will prevent wear...so does submicronic mean it protectrs better than any other filter capable of 2 micron? Probably not.
As an example...my 04.5 is the emissions engine with the 3rd injection that blackens the oil. Most report fresh oil turning black, in this generation of common rail, within a couple hundred miles. It takes over 5000 miles for my oil to become black, and its still clear on the dipstick. I know for a fact that an EaBP110 did not do that (I replaced an Amsoil EaBP with the GCF). Further, if I replace the element at 10k (I do 10k element changes), the oil will become clear again...my UOAs always come back good.
I'm not saying a GCF or Frantz are better than any other bypass, but they can be more economical in the long run.
As an example...my 04.5 is the emissions engine with the 3rd injection that blackens the oil. Most report fresh oil turning black, in this generation of common rail, within a couple hundred miles. It takes over 5000 miles for my oil to become black, and its still clear on the dipstick. I know for a fact that an EaBP110 did not do that (I replaced an Amsoil EaBP with the GCF). Further, if I replace the element at 10k (I do 10k element changes), the oil will become clear again...my UOAs always come back good.
I'm not saying a GCF or Frantz are better than any other bypass, but they can be more economical in the long run.
#16
Ha-Ha!
I'm sort of an oddball to ask this question...by changing my GCF element, I change 1.5 gallons of oil. Considering my *sump* is 4.5 gallons with this filter, I essentially change 1/3 of my oil each time I change the element.
I have not really extended oil change intervals because I found Rotella wasn't holding up...but now I'm running Schaeffer 5w40 and its holding up really well, so I'll probably not change oil anymore...just change the element at 10k filter change intervals.
But in most instances, you change the bypass and the main filter and add make up oil (assuming you do oil analyses to verify the oil is in good condition).
I'm sort of an oddball to ask this question...by changing my GCF element, I change 1.5 gallons of oil. Considering my *sump* is 4.5 gallons with this filter, I essentially change 1/3 of my oil each time I change the element.
I have not really extended oil change intervals because I found Rotella wasn't holding up...but now I'm running Schaeffer 5w40 and its holding up really well, so I'll probably not change oil anymore...just change the element at 10k filter change intervals.
But in most instances, you change the bypass and the main filter and add make up oil (assuming you do oil analyses to verify the oil is in good condition).
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