i've been having problems with my dodge. i dont want the dodge dealership to rape me but im lost. my truck starts up fine..runs for a couple minutes and begins to start missing. black smoke hazes from the exhaust at idle. when i put it in gear, the truck dies and wont start again until it cools back down. Any ideas? I have replaced the FCA on the cp3...the relief valve...i now have a full air-dog 150gph fuel setup. my rail pressure guage wont be here until monday. Any help would be awesome! also, i had injectors back out of their seal according to the dealership which gave me these problems in the 1st place.

 

you had that problem with the aftermarket injector or the stock one? The OEM version should be trouble but I wouldn't have expected the DDP's to be.

First thing I would do is take that Bullydog off and clear all the codes. See if the problem is still present. Then I would check to see what your Fuel Pressure is at the CP3. I am assuming that you have a FP gauge? Rail pressure won't mean much if the CP3 is toast (yes, folks, it does happen). After that, remove and replace as needed all the fuel filters you have.

Did this problem start after you installed the AD? If so, can you confirm the return line is not plugged or pressurized? It needs to be open to the atmosphere and must be able to drain freely.

If none of that helps - I'm out.

 

this all happened 2 days after i installed the injector nozzles. the truck made funy noise and i shut it down, took it to dodge and they told me it was the injectors. they werent tq'd down. the truck doesnt make that noise anymore but now i have this problem. they told me it was the fuel pump. i installed the air-dog but im still getting the exact same problem so fp to the cp3 isnt the problem. maybe a cracked injector? after it (they) popped back up, maybe it damaged one?

 

Solo,

Did you install the sticks or did they?

If you did it and you know your way around your block it is really unlikely that you did anything.

You can remove the valve cover, pull the fuel lines, remove the wiring harness, remove the "rocker clip" (sorry I don't know what it is called) and pull them yourself. Not hard to do and if you take your time you can completely back track and make sure the orings are seated correctly and that the feeder tubes are working (seated) and that the fuel lines are connected correctly. You want to make sure the fuel lines are clipped at the factory locations - yes this makes a difference and no I don't know why.

What is your FP? It needs to be above 6 to do any good. I'm wondering if you buy passed the draw tube on your AD install? This in-tank pump that you had is a pain for blocking and can do all sorts of strange things. If you can't get fuel to the Ad, then to the CP3 and then to the sticks you aren't going to run very afr. Somehow I think this is fuel tank related and has nothing to do with the sticks but I've been wrong before.

 

i unhooked the fuel line at the cp3 and bump the key...fuel came gushing out like a river. i was having this problem before i installed the air-dog. i was told that was the problem but i was also told it was the relief valve and they fixed that and it still didnt work. i installed the injectors myself. im hooking it up to a nice scanner tomorrow morning to monitor the injectors and see what they are doing. i installed the draw tube also.

 

Did you put the noz's on the sticks too? If so, are they torqued correctly? Did you use the right washers? Did the old ones come out with the OEM sticks?

If this isn't it I'm pretty much out. Sorry dude. If you can send me pictures or a video or something I might be able to help more but for now I'm stumped.

 

the sticks are stock. i used new washers and i torqued them down correctly....i'll let you know after i put it on the scanner tomorrow. i appreciate the help!!!

 

If the truck fires and then stops dead it has to be a fueling thing. Poor quality injectors will make it run bad but it should still run. Same with a relief valve. If the excess fuel from the pump has no way of retruning to the tank then it might hydro-lock itself but frankly I just can't see this happening.

 

i have been told that if a injector is stuck wide open...it wont build rail pressure. i hooked that air-dog up correctly. thh dealership said it was the in-tank lift pump. i replaced it with a better set-up and im still getting the same exact problem..thats why im leaning away from the pump unless its the cp3 pump that is bad.

 

That's why I want you to test the pressure at the pump with a gauge. When your rail gauge gets here you can test the pressure after the pump.

Normal pressures before the CP3 should be no less than 6 psi and the normal rail pressures should be no less than 26000 psi. 27500 is best if memory serves and anything over 29000 and that too can be a problem. Do that testing with and without your box installed.