Getting hot while towing.
Last summer, I towed our toy hauler and my coolant temps would get very hot (it would overheat if I stayed in it).
I swapped the big injectors to II 85hp, and it's a lot better,
But will still get hot on a grade. I also pulled the rad and cleaned it. I flushed it, and rust came out of the lower hose.
Seems like when egts are over 1100 for any length of time, the coolant temps will climb.
Any ideas?
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I swapped the big injectors to II 85hp, and it's a lot better,
But will still get hot on a grade. I also pulled the rad and cleaned it. I flushed it, and rust came out of the lower hose.
Seems like when egts are over 1100 for any length of time, the coolant temps will climb.
Any ideas?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ok couple of ideas, first would be a thermostat change, there should be a high flow model you can get or just a fresh one. Second is I run my mix at about four to one. 1 part antifreeze 4 parts distilled water. Water has much better cooling properties. Third would be to make sure you have good air flow through your A/C condenser and through your intercooler because they are both ahead of the rad. So if air can't get through those then it wound make it to the rad. Fourth is to not run your A/C when you know you are about to pull hard. Last I think would be to make sure the engine is breathing well. I didn't look at your sig but air intake and a free flowing exhaust helps everything. Im no Dr but these are just some things i have done that seemed to help.
Ok couple of ideas, first would be a thermostat change, there should be a high flow model you can get or just a fresh one. Second is I run my mix at about four to one. 1 part antifreeze 4 parts distilled water. Water has much better cooling properties. Third would be to make sure you have good air flow through your A/C condenser and through your intercooler because they are both ahead of the rad. So if air can't get through those then it wound make it to the rad. Fourth is to not run your A/C when you know you are about to pull hard. Last I think would be to make sure the engine is breathing well. I didn't look at your sig but air intake and a free flowing exhaust helps everything. Im no Dr but these are just some things i have done that seemed to help.
Do you have any info on the high flow tstat? Part number or anything? I just replaced the fan clutch at the beginning of summer. I'm running premixed coolant now, so 3:1 makes sense. I'll give that a try.
I tried looking for a larger replacement rad, but didn't find one.
Would excessive blow by cause overheating?
I keep boost under 30psi when pulling a big grade.
I should also mention that I'm running a PP and the Smarty is on level 4 now. I didn't run the pp over summer, and the Smarty was on level 2.
This sucks to test, because the truck will not get hot unless I am towing.
Thanks for the advise.
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Last edited by skav; Feb 21, 2012 at 01:16 PM.
how many miles on radiator. from my experience most cummins are good to 200k then radiator gest pluged and cooling eficiencey goes down. I just pulled my radiator out looked good and no leakes, put new one in and bam temp never moves now. ther is a extra large radiator out ther also. and i forgot to add if you have auto with sliping converter it will kill your temps!
Last edited by pukie370; Feb 22, 2012 at 01:18 AM.
how many miles on radiator. from my experience most cummins are good to 200k then radiator gest pluged and cooling eficiencey goes down. I just pulled my radiator out looked good and no leakes, put new one in and bam temp never moves now. ther is a extra large radiator out ther also. and i forgot to add if you have auto with sliping converter it will kill your temps!
Do you have any info in the extra large rad? I call a couple places and only found a stock replacement. I'd like to swap to a high flow tstat and extra large rad.
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