that's why i keep all my fuel receipts. didn't your WIF light come on?? It should have being you have all the stock fuel system intact.

 

I would have to agree on this also..... I pay more than $800 for ANY VP44 available. And if there just replacing the Lift pump for $800 then you have another problem on your hands.

Try this....

Make sure you change your Fuel Filter. Put some additive in your fuel and see if they helps any. Trying using Stanadyne or Power Service additives.

Let us know

 

I cleaned out the tank and a new filter. Just pt another tank in it. I still have 13-14 psi at idle.is this good or baD?

 

thats good pressure right there

so what pressure ya got a 'WOT"......................wide open throttle

 

thats real good psi's if it ever goes under 5# best hunt a lift pump . I keep 1 under the seat at alltimes a $165 lift pump and 45 min. install is alot cheaper than a $1250 inj. pump any day

 

im not sure i think 6-7 wot. It will get down to 3 if im hard on it with the programmer all the way up. But i never turn it up just a little for pulling my 24ft enclosed trailer. Then it stays the same 6-7.

 

I would consider anything below 5 psi to be insufficient

 

If your turnin the tuner to pull a trailer keep a close eye on the EGT's, it'll get awfull hot real quick when it's turned up. Myself, as soon as I hook a trailer up the programmer get's turned off. To much heat for mine.

 

I have an edge and the trailer setting is #2 i think its some where around 75 to 100 extra horse im not sure without looking at the box, but i have never had a problem with egt's. Once in a while it will get over a 1100 mostly its at 900- 1100. Thats a 24ft with race car and tools. 19000 lbs

 

How is it running now?
By watching your pyro, you're taking care of the exhaust temps. As already mentioned, a regular dose of a good fuel treatment and your recent fuel tank & filter replacement should have you covered.
You have a certain amout of built in diagnostic capability by turning your keyswitch On-Off-On-Off-On then look at your odometer for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) which can be discussed here.