i have a splitter on one of mine. one stays on all the time and one is switched ignition. i keep it in the switched ignition that way the cb and radar detector will shut off and the cell phone will stay chargin...... definately a thought that only cost $10 bux or less

 

Another though of the day for you all. Instead of pluggin all this stuff in to these lighter sockets, why not just hard wire em right to the fuses. I have the radar detector, CB, electronic compass, and my aftermarket seat heaters wired right into the fuse panel so I don't have all the cords hangin. Radio Shack sells the little tabs that slip right over the fork of the fuse and power what ever you want that is dedicated to be in that truck all the time anyway.

 

Fuse taps I believe they are called. They take a bit of beggering around with to make them work right...but yeah, thats a way to go too. Im going hard wire my cell phone in tomorrow....

 

Yeah Ben - the windchill was minus 28 Celcius today....Fall is finally here. Now, where did I put my heavy sweater???

 

If you wanted to really do it right, a guy could just pick up one of thoes little cheapy 5 fuse blocks to put all this stuf to and then just wire the new bloc to the truck. Would be a lot cleaner but to much extra effort for me.

 

Hell Doc, I thought you said it was cold. -28 sounded cold till you said celcius. It's that cold right now all the way down here in Illinois.

 

I dont think so - Chicago is -2C right now....not -20 C:

http://www.weather.com/weather/local...om=search_city

 

Chicago, that's like sayin you live in Ontario, just cause your from Canada. I'm 5 hours away from even the outskirts of Chi town. Our local weather is showin us at 24 w/windchill right now, -8 in your world. But for me that's a little misleading. They take that reading from the airport in town and there's always more wind blowin out in boonyland then there is in town around here.

 

oh.....ok....

 

I see everyone's right on topic as usual.....

See what this does fer ya:

1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

2. Pull the cigar lighter **** and element out of the cigar lighter receptacle base, or unsnap the protective cap from the power outlet receptacle base (Fig. 1).



3. Look inside the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base and note the position of the rectangular retaining bosses of the mount that secures the receptacle base to the instrument panel (Fig. 2).


4. Insert a pair of external snap ring pliers into the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base and engage the tips of the pliers with the retaining bosses of the mount.
5. Squeeze the pliers to disengage the mount retaining bosses from the receptacle base and, using a gentle rocking motion, pull the pliers and the receptacle base out of the mount.
6. Pull the receptacle base away from the instrument panel far enough to access the instrument panel wire harness connector.
7. Disconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector from the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base connector receptacle.
8. Remove the cigar lighter or power outlet mount from the instrument panel.

INSTALLATION

1. Install the cigar lighter or power outlet mount into the instrument panel.
2. Reconnect the instrument panel wire harness connector to the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base connector receptacle.
3. Align the splines on the outside of the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base connector receptacle with the grooves on the inside of the mount.
4. Press firmly on the cigar lighter or power outlet receptacle base until the retaining bosses of the mount are fully engaged in their receptacles.
5. Install the cigar lighter **** and element into the cigar lighter receptacle base, or the protective cap into the power outlet receptacle base.
6. Reconnect the battery negative cable.