24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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2001 dodge won't start

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  #11  
Old 12-04-2010, 12:41 PM
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  #12  
Old 12-04-2010, 01:12 PM
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when cranking what kind of smoke are you getting out the exhaust? If any?
 
  #13  
Old 12-04-2010, 04:44 PM
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there isn't any smoke. it will crank over real fast just won't start unless you roll start it. Thanks there is alot of good info on there that will help.
 

Last edited by towens; 12-04-2010 at 04:58 PM.
  #14  
Old 12-04-2010, 06:07 PM
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no smoke there is no fuel. with the rolling start its probably running off the lift pump. the vp diaphram inside the head of the pump are known to crack
 
  #15  
Old 12-04-2010, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by towens
the batteries are new the wts will come on sometimes when it does you can hear the selonoid click but still wont start i tried shooting a bit of starting fluid to it and it would't hit off that either. what do i need to do to check the grid heater? i am also getting a dead pedal if i drive it a long way it will idle but when you push the pedal nothing you can shut the truck off and turn it back on and it will work fine?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

my codes are 0500,0460,0121,0562,0236. my fuel gauge isnt working and my ABS light is on so a couple of the codes are prolly due to those problems.
I didn’t catch this double post from you before and WOW.....that’s a lot of codes. The reason I saw this post too was that I was checking to see if you referenced new batteries, and you did but I have to say that one indication of poor battery condition is no starting when cranking. This is because the pintle valve in the VP needs at least 9 volts or the VP has a hard time functioning. Trying to crank over the Cummins in cold weather creates a large amperage draw in the electrical system and therefore has nothing left for the VP to fuel properly if both batteries aren't in tip top condition. This is why roll starts help since then the amperage is much higher due to the lack of engine cranking. So aside from the numerous problems your truck obviously has, I'd again check to make sure those "new" batteries are perfect and possibly one didn’t go bad on you unexpectedly. They should also be both new and the same exact battery. Dont mix and match. Then maybe your battery cables are bad or your grounds are bad or the cable connections are loose. If you live in a high corrosion area then I seriously look over every electrical connection.
 
  #16  
Old 12-05-2010, 11:53 AM
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All of your codes point at your voltages being too low... maybe you have a shorted field coil in your starter causing it too draw excessive amperage when cranking. but lets hope its more like a corroded cable or such.
 
  #17  
Old 12-05-2010, 04:26 PM
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it cranks over real fast though it isn't draggy at all and the starter is about a month old. i was hoping that was my problem to thats why i went and bought two new batteries and the starter but didn't help it. got a little over 40 today and it fired right up the wts light didn't come on though if it gets below 40 it won't start at all. i cracked an injector line and it was squirting fuel so im leaning toward the grid heater since the wts light is acting funny and the heater isn't getting warm to the touch but i could be way off from the problem idk. if it is squirting out the injetor line shouldn't it smoke when trying to start? it is about 20 here now i went out to try it and the wts light came on for about 10 seconds then went off but the volt gauge didn't move and of course it would't start.
 
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