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Machining Head After Blown Gasket??

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  #21  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:16 PM
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From what I have heard and researched, you need studs for fire rings, but not o-rings. Each fastener needs 150ft-lbs of torque on them to properly crush and seat the copper ring. Bolts can not achieve the proper down force required to crush the ring. They may make it to 150ft-lbs, but they are stretching at that point, and possibly pulling threads.
 
  #22  
Old 10-11-2010, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by RAWilliams
From what I have heard and researched, you need studs for fire rings, but not o-rings. Each fastener needs 150ft-lbs of torque on them to properly crush and seat the copper ring. Bolts can not achieve the proper down force required to crush the ring. They may make it to 150ft-lbs, but they are stretching at that point, and possibly pulling threads.
ARP2000's are only rated to 125#s and my Orings are stainless.
 
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:26 PM
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Just what I have heard. Stainless is hard stuff, pretty hard to crush it. Needs a lot more down force than copper. I am very interested to hear how that works out.
 
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:45 PM
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I believe they press INTO the head gasket, the rings themselves do not crush.
 
  #25  
Old 10-11-2010, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbolvr
I believe they press INTO the head gasket, the rings themselves do not crush.
You are correct... According to the machine shop the o-rings are stainless and they crush the **** out of the stock compression ring on the head gasket. Mashing it hard as hell into the block. WAY more sealing that way. He said they have a truck running 70psi and they hold fantastic! He also said 125# of tq on the bolts! BUT you need an extensive re tourqe to lock it down... Hot, torque, cold, torque, hot torque repeat till it the tq wrench only CLICKS at 125 not turn bolts anymore.
 
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:25 AM
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Mine holds 80psi all day, but 90+psi will blow it. The re-torques are key. if the head isnt fully seated and the HG isnt bedded in, it will blow out again. Took me 3 gaskets to get it right.
 
  #27  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:47 AM
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What were you doing wrong when you torqued it the first couple times? I dont wanna mess this up! I assume that if i do it wrong and the gasket goes i wont have to worry about the o-rings and head? Just another gasket?
 
  #28  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:57 AM
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I didnt bed the gasket in enough. It takes a few heat cycles and some time with a few re-torques to seat the thing properly. Be SURE everything is CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN! use air to blow out the bolt holes (cover the hole with a rag or it will spray everywhere) I also used a copper gasket spray adhesive for extra tack. its a pain, but its worth it when it holds without issue.
I had a ball-bearing 66 over a S480/1.10 and it made over 100psi around 2500rpms, thats too much for standard studs to hold. I now run both stages gated, and its set to only 70psi so I can hold it to the floor without worry.
 
  #29  
Old 10-12-2010, 04:43 PM
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I will heat cycle the **** out of it! How many ft/lbs of tq did you run them down to? I am still wondering if PAPs allen bolts will hold? If not I guess I will be buying studs... I dropped the head off today at Advanced Sleave who does the engine work for "Wasted Wages". They are going to clean, machine and o-ring it for me. Heeeere goes the mods! I wonder how much injectors are since I had to pull them out anyway for the machine shop?
 
  #30  
Old 10-12-2010, 04:55 PM
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I used ARP2000's and torqued to 90#, then 110#, let sit over night, 125# idle up to temp, let cool, 1 @ a time loosen and re-torque to 130#, drive for a week, do it again, drive for a week and do it again. remember to set lash EACH time as it will change and re-lube the nuts/washers each time. All torques were done COLD.

I have a set of 240hp JL 7x12 injectors for $425. if you want them.
 


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