24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 Discussion of 24 Valve 5.9 Liter Dodge Cummins Diesels with VP44 Injection Pumps
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12valve or 24valve, what do you prefer?

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  #11  
Old 09-27-2010, 05:32 PM
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wiht those two trucks i say that 24v hands down just hte miles alone would make me buy that one! the one wiht more miles sure the motor is ok but thats 200K on all the drivetrain!
 
  #12  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:26 PM
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go with the 24V and if the vp44 pump goes out just P-pump it, and have the best of both worlds a 24v with the p-pump on it that is my plan when mine goes out anyway.
 
  #13  
Old 09-27-2010, 09:52 PM
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the 24valve looks like a scam, the price is to darn good. first she emails me back saying it was her husbands truck and she got it in the divorce and doesnt need it, belivable, so i ask for a phone number since the one listed didnt work. she emails me back with no phone number, she says the truck is now in California since she moved and that someone backed out of buying it but already payed the shipping so all she is waiting for is my name and information and she can ship it for free... just seems like a scam to me, i HAVE to talk to someone on the phone before purchasing anything, otherwise its a scam. the 24 valve(if its even for real) is completely stock other then the hubs and lift from what i can tell, its a beautiful truck, much more truck for the money then the 12valve, but i have really good feeling im going to end up buying this 12 valve within the next few days here because its not out of state, i can talk to him on the phone, its not so sketchy like this 24 valve truck.

i really can not wait to get into a diesel, its funny im even going for a cummins, im a really hardcore chevy guy but lets face it, the only way to get into a GOOD diesel truck for under 6,000 bucks is a cummins, and im about fed up with ifs, strait axle is a huge plus, on top of that its cool that ill get an nv4500 to match whats in my other truck. i was out job hunting today, didn't even get 3 applications in before my truck bursts a heater core line in the applebees parking lot, had to walk home, filled out an app at a pizza joint on the way home tho . iv yet to make more then a month in this truck without having to fix it for the past 3 years, on average something minor is broken once a week with major problems occurring 4-6 months apart. it time for a reliable daily driver... im just done dumping money into this mud truck that i call a daily driver. sold off my atv for 2500 bucks, and all my spare chevy engine parts, got 3200 bucks ready to roll into this truck, need a job to pay the rest off to my parents. so money is tight, 1000 bucks on an injection pump is something i can not afford to do right off the bat, my plans for this truck are pretty much a cheap 6" stack and get a seat cover for the ripped up bench, thats about it. i have no intentions on making this truck go fast, when i graduate college and get a real job a duramax will come along for that.
 

Last edited by Chevy355mark; 09-27-2010 at 10:00 PM.
  #14  
Old 09-27-2010, 10:01 PM
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24V, I really don't like static timing and dumping raw diesel fuel all over my cylinder walls when its -30*C. Its nice to be able to turn any excess timing and fueling off.
 
  #15  
Old 09-28-2010, 10:44 PM
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I would go with a 24v. I love mine and if the pump goes out, it goes out. Its gota fail sometime. And yes it does sound like a scam.
 
  #16  
Old 09-28-2010, 11:24 PM
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yea i abandoned the 24valve truck because it seemed like a scam, today i went back on the listing and its no longer for sale. right now i REALLY want to get that single cab 12valve, but im still looking. basically, im going to prefer a 12valve, but i wouldnt have any problems getting a 24 valve. it just has to be a really nice truck to consider it since i do prefer the ease of the 12 valve, no pump problems, and i have no intentions on hot rodding this truck so i really dont care which one makes more power, i expect this truck to be so slow that its funny, if it will blow a little smoke and get good mpg ill be happy.
 
  #17  
Old 09-30-2010, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevy355mark
right now i REALLY want to get that single cab 12valve,



same here
 
  #18  
Old 09-30-2010, 11:20 AM
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if your not going to hot rod it get a 24v better as a stock DD'er i love driving my dads stock as stock cna be (well edge EZ) auto truck around town was better then my 12v its just a nicer DD'er now I ove getting back into my modded 12v a actually feeing like I can sink back into the seats and the trans doesn't SLLLLIIIIIIIIP all the time but hey
 
  #19  
Old 09-30-2010, 01:32 PM
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i think im driving down to loxahatchee tomorrow to take a look at this 12 valve. hes really difficult to deal with over the phone so im just going to drive down to see the truck, im kind of reluctant but i cant find any other trucks within 700 miles that are even close to what im looking for or even close to my price range. he wont send me more pictures, he refuses to bargain with me, wont take less then 5500, and he sounds real dopey, cant hardly understand his mush mouth. talked to him a little, he says the fuel cutoff solenoid is bad, he pulls a string or something as a mechanical over ride before he starts it(he sounds like a real idiot, who knows whats wrong there) and the front timing cover seal leaks, the ac blows cold but the fan doesn't move much air, so i guess the cabin filter is just plugged up. it has a saggy headliner, the front tires are bald, and the paint is chipping a little on the hood... but overall its a decent truck with a good motor for a pretty good price, what do you guys think? worth a 3 hour drive? i really cant find anything even close to this thing for under 7,000 bucks, especially something with a 4.5" lift kit. i really really like this truck... but i reallly cant stand the guy im having to deal with to look at the truck...
 
  #20  
Old 09-30-2010, 02:31 PM
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Heres the list of thing you should check or ask.

I had a 97 regular cab w/ 5speed:

KDP - leaking front timing cover
Solenoid cutoff fuse - fuse inside cab probably blown - mine keeps blowing
fuel plate or torque plate - did he add one or not - i added #10 plate which fried the clutch
Clutch - fried from #10 torque plate
lift pump - mine went out @ 200K.
exhaust manifold crack - check the block exhaust 1 and 2 for crack - mine did
check rear axle leak - mine did
check the front panhard bar - replaced mine few time - test drive it
check for fuel line rust - mine had a hole, stranded middle of nowhere bcuz of it
brake line rust - mine broke
I don't think they have cabin filter - check blower fan fuse - inside blower housing
Front unit bearing replaced mine @ 220K
Universal joints - replaced mine @ 160K
------
With all this problem to list, still I really like the truck.... missed her.
 
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