Cracked Block
#1
04-02-2010, 08:37 PM
#2
04-02-2010, 08:44 PM
Very likely a #53...
Info is here - with pics of my #53 - 53 Block FAQ and Information
IMO, the only real fix is the swap the block out.
Info is here - with pics of my #53 - 53 Block FAQ and Information
IMO, the only real fix is the swap the block out.
#3
04-03-2010, 04:43 AM
#4
04-03-2010, 09:33 AM
Diesel Bomber
#6
04-04-2010, 08:02 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Oregon
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Cracked Block
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. This will tell you if it is. What happens is a crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. There is a repair for this from a company in California I think they are called LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. I hope this helps you out.
#7
04-08-2010, 01:12 PM
The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams.
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. This will tell you if it is. What happens is a crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. There is a repair for this from a company in California I think they are called LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. I hope this helps you out.
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. This will tell you if it is. What happens is a crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. There is a repair for this from a company in California I think they are called LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. I hope this helps you out.
#8
04-08-2010, 01:39 PM
#9
04-08-2010, 03:10 PM
#10
04-08-2010, 08:49 PM
Not to thread hijack.... BUT... I have a 53 block with 165k on it... It has had a tuner on it from previous owner and i have on on it now. The prior owner towed a big camper... Like 10K ALLOT! How worried SHOULD i be? I dont wanna jinx myself so i wont mention the state of my block right now but im sure you get my drift!
