Diesel Bombers - Cracked Block

Diesel Bombers (https://www.dieselbombers.com/)

- 24 Valve 2nd Gen Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/)

- - Cracked Block (https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-98-5-02/47812-cracked-block.html)

I have a 1999 Dodge cummins 24 vavle 5.88 liter diesel that I suspect has a cracked block. It is leaking antifreeze down the passenger side of the block. Is this a 53 block? and does anyone have any experience with situation?

Very likely a #53...

Info is here - with pics of my #53 - 53 Block FAQ and Information

IMO, the only real fix is the swap the block out.

welcome to diesel bombers and that really sucks for that to be your first thread thats a bummer :argh::argh::argh:

yea bud that blows...but im with dr evil. the only true fix is to swap the block if that is the case. if you look for a fix other problems are sure to follow.:dang:

if its just an external leak you can put a brass cap on it,

Quote:

Originally Posted by menedo (Post 529571)

The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams.
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. This will tell you if it is. What happens is a crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. There is a repair for this from a company in California I think they are called LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. I hope this helps you out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Klove97220 (Post 530691)

The "53" comes from a casting number on the side of the block and is used to identify the problem blocks. Supposedly it affects about 100,000 blocks, but not only in Dodge Rams.
If you want to see if your engine block could be one of these dreaded "53" blocks, crawl under the front, left side, and look up at the block on the front, directly under the injector pump (by the PS pump). You should see a large wiring harness mounted to the block. Directly below this, just above where the oil pan meets the block you will look for a "53" cast in the block. The numbers will be about 1 inch tall. This will tell you if it is. What happens is a crack develops on the right side of the engine, below the freeze plugs, right where the block bends back towards the inside of the block. It is a difficult area to see for auto transmission owners as it is directly behind the transmission heat exchanger. At first everything evaporates so there is no spot under the truck, but you may notice a coolant odor. The leak doesn't occur at idle in most cases because the crack is tight to get through, and doesn't leak until the RPMs of the engine are up, with the water pump causing higher pressure inside the engine block due to the restriction of the thermostat. The crack will grow over time and you will go through coolant faster. I found that I lost coolant at a slower rate if I let the engine warm up for a while, so the thermostat opened and lessened the pressure inside the engine block. There is a repair for this from a company in California I think they are called LOCK-N-STITCH Inc. I hope this helps you out.

The 53 stamp could be on either side. A buddy of mine has one on one side and my truck has it on the other side. So if you don't see it on the left side try looking on the right side of the block.

yup. My 53 is on both sides.

And Lock n Stitch is just a band aid fix here. The best route is to reblock it.

I had Cummins swap blocks on mine a few years ago. They had a program were they would do the swap if you paid the labor and expendables and they paid for parts block included. It cost me $3,000 and them $3,000. I beleive the program is over but it is worth a shot to look into.

Not to thread hijack.... BUT... I have a 53 block with 165k on it... It has had a tuner on it from previous owner and i have on on it now. The prior owner towed a big camper... Like 10K ALLOT! How worried SHOULD i be? I dont wanna jinx myself so i wont mention the state of my block right now but im sure you get my drift!