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Clutch on NV5600 won't release when cold

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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Default Clutch on NV5600 won't release when cold

I'm having problems getting the clutch to release after letting the truck sit for a period of time. Usually, I have a hard time getting it into gear so I have to start the truck in 2nd gear or reverse and it'll just take off even with the clutch all the way depressed. But after pumping the clutch maybe 20-50 times, it then starts to work normally again. I checked the fluid level and it was low so I added some fluid. What's going on? The problem just suddenly showed up one day after letting the truck sit all night.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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hyd slave cylinder is leaking ya need a new one cant repair.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 11:19 PM
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I don't see any signs of leaking so it must be leaking into the transmission.

1. Are there any pitfalls such as parts falling into the bell housing when I remove the slave cylinder.
2. Where should I buy the slave cylinder? Clutchcityonline.com sells it for $57.
3. Is this a good method for bleeding?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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I was always told that you are better ahead to buy then entire sealed hydraulic system when dealing with these clutches, rather than trying to piece them together when individual components fail. You can pick up the entire system for around $200.00.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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I notice that after sitting for a while, the clutch doesn't want to disengage when I push down on the clutch pedal. However, if I pump the clutch pedal repeatedly maybe 20 times, it'll reprime itself and the clutch pedal will work properly again. I also notice that the fluid is very black. Based on the symptoms and the fact the fluid is black, does this mean the slave cylinder is bad or the master cylinder is bad?

Also, are there any pitfalls such as parts falling into the bell housing when I remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing?
 

Last edited by Edahall; Feb 20, 2010 at 10:51 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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yeah they are both bad, change out the hole system its very easy to do two nuts on the bell housing and a clip in the clutch pedal. get the one complete unit, it takes 30 mins to do
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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Best solution is as most stated. Get an aftermarket Updated hydraulic system for your truck here
Heavy Duty Hydraulics
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 02:09 PM
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Here is a link to an upgrade hydraulics on a NV4500 not sure what kind of truck your working on. https://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-...hydraulic.html
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:24 PM
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Thanks for the links. My truck is a 1990 Chevy Suburban with a Dodge drivetrain. The NV5600 was out of a 2001 Dodge. The clutch hydraulics is kind of a hybrid with Chevy & Dodge parts. The clutch master cylinder is Chevy and that hooks up to the Dodge clutch slave cylinder. I don't know how much work it would be to convert the whole thing to Dodge. On the other hand, I can buy a Chevy clutch master cylinder for around $20. I'm thinking that this is the problem because it self bleeds if I pump the clutch pedal. If the slave cylinder was leaking, I would think it would never bleed like this.

Also, is there a difference between the updated hydraulic system and the stock system?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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In my situation the upgrade was a larger slave cylinder and MC. In the link i sent ya do you notice the anodized quick disconnect you might be able to get Valair to send you a Chevy MC to New venture slave cylinder.kind of make you a hybrid unit. Not to sure but some of the Chevrolet's had NV5600 or 4500's in them prior to the Allison might be worth checking into.
 
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