frozen hubs
#1
#4
#9
Do you have a 4x4?
If you do and they're using the OTC-style tool to pull the sealed unit bearing hubs out with the lug studs, there is a chance that the outer section will stick in the knuckle and they will pull the inner section out, effectively destroying the $400+ sealed unit front wheel bearing.
My dad's were stuck on his truck. 1995 4x4 2500, 275,000 miles. I sourced some grade 10.9 bolts 5" long from Fastenal and screwed them in where the regular 12pt bolts go that attach the sealed unit bearing hub to the knuckle and drove the hubs out with a combination of Kroil, a 4 pound drilling hammer, patience, and a wee bit of talent. The sealed unit bearings are very high quality, I have personally seen 800,000+ miles on the original factory setup. Worth saving if you can...
The shop can do it as well if they take the time....BUT, at however much per hour, and the tech's abilities to think outside the box, you might be better off buying new sealed unit bearing hubs.
Hope this helps,
Dan
If you do and they're using the OTC-style tool to pull the sealed unit bearing hubs out with the lug studs, there is a chance that the outer section will stick in the knuckle and they will pull the inner section out, effectively destroying the $400+ sealed unit front wheel bearing.
My dad's were stuck on his truck. 1995 4x4 2500, 275,000 miles. I sourced some grade 10.9 bolts 5" long from Fastenal and screwed them in where the regular 12pt bolts go that attach the sealed unit bearing hub to the knuckle and drove the hubs out with a combination of Kroil, a 4 pound drilling hammer, patience, and a wee bit of talent. The sealed unit bearings are very high quality, I have personally seen 800,000+ miles on the original factory setup. Worth saving if you can...
The shop can do it as well if they take the time....BUT, at however much per hour, and the tech's abilities to think outside the box, you might be better off buying new sealed unit bearing hubs.
Hope this helps,
Dan
Last edited by Mr. Miyagi; 08-26-2009 at 11:39 PM.
#10
I will first off, loosen the four wheel bearing 12 point mounting bolts aprox 2 turns each . Have somone start the truck and using the turning action of the knuckle/head of bolt against the axle tube flange, slowly alternate between bolt heads "pressing" the bearing out using the 12 point socked and a 2 to 3 inch half inch dr. extention then turn the bolts out another 2 turns and do the same thing again till the bearing ***. is loose enough in the knuckle to remove in on piece.. I have had a few sticky ones and this always seems to work , just dont turn the bolts out too far each time or you will bend them and have to replace them . Good luck . Hope this helps
The following 2 users liked this post by tworks:
Mr. Miyagi (08-27-2009),
TCdodge (08-27-2009)