So I'm having to replace the ball joints, and the garage, which I have used for years on various vehicles, says the hubs are frozen and will need to be replaced because they'll be torn up getting them off. Sound familiar?

 

I'd make a trip down there and see what they got going on.

 

x2 I would think if the hubs were frozen, the front tires would not roll

 

The problem, as explained to me, is the wheel bearing seized in the hubs. The hubs have to be removed to replace the ball joints and it appears they will have to be beaten/ cut off.

 

Did they mean the race and not the bearing?? Sorry, but something sounds fishy.

 

Sounds like they are taking you for a roller coaster ride.I understand the upper and lower Ball joints being beaten and/or cut off.Is yours a 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel.On the 4 wheel drives there a one piece hub assembly and there pricey Ive done my whole front end.

 

one of my wheel bearing hubs tore up from the dealership changing ball joints. one came off and one in pieces.

 

if you have to change the both it's a good time to upgrade to locking hubs and free up some mpgs as the factory parts are pricey to change.

 

Do you have a 4x4?

If you do and they're using the OTC-style tool to pull the sealed unit bearing hubs out with the lug studs, there is a chance that the outer section will stick in the knuckle and they will pull the inner section out, effectively destroying the $400+ sealed unit front wheel bearing.

My dad's were stuck on his truck. 1995 4x4 2500, 275,000 miles. I sourced some grade 10.9 bolts 5" long from Fastenal and screwed them in where the regular 12pt bolts go that attach the sealed unit bearing hub to the knuckle and drove the hubs out with a combination of Kroil, a 4 pound drilling hammer, patience, and a wee bit of talent. The sealed unit bearings are very high quality, I have personally seen 800,000+ miles on the original factory setup. Worth saving if you can...

The shop can do it as well if they take the time....BUT, at however much per hour, and the tech's abilities to think outside the box, you might be better off buying new sealed unit bearing hubs.

Hope this helps,

Dan

 

I will first off, loosen the four wheel bearing 12 point mounting bolts aprox 2 turns each . Have somone start the truck and using the turning action of the knuckle/head of bolt against the axle tube flange, slowly alternate between bolt heads "pressing" the bearing out using the 12 point socked and a 2 to 3 inch half inch dr. extention then turn the bolts out another 2 turns and do the same thing again till the bearing ***. is loose enough in the knuckle to remove in on piece.. I have had a few sticky ones and this always seems to work , just dont turn the bolts out too far each time or you will bend them and have to replace them . Good luck . Hope this helps