It looks like there is a slot it slides up in but can`t tell how it locks in . Maybe the new one will help me understand .




Cant tell how to get to the wires ( connection on top) to unhook them

 

Yes it definitely looks like it slides up the slot , I bet when you get the new one it will be easy to tell whats up with both issues. It may be a wedge fit also might have to use a mirror and look for a lock tab in the slot. Tap it down see if it moves. It looks like the rheostat circuit card is held in with little tabs too.
If there isn't a plug with the new sender you may have to disengage the wire with a red and white plastic wire extractor (available at radio shack).
The metal connectors on the end of the wires have a small tang that locks the connector to the plug.

 

Thank you Jet A Fuel for your help . When I finish I will repost results

 

Yes , there was a tiny little tab that locks it in place . Slight pressure with a screwdriver and it comes out . One problem solved . Now to figure out how to get the wires unhooked . I see a push tab on bottom of lid connector but haven`t had any luck yet . I push and wiggle everything but nothing yet .

 

If adding a draw straw make sure your cut is straight. If not you will end up with 1/4 fueling issues.

 

Good suggestion Ghost! the instructions say to use a quarter and space it off the bottom of the tank. The problem I found is when the tank expands and contracts this gap can be greater or less with fuel load/tank pressure etc. Less gap would be bad cause it could restrict the flow if the bottom of the tank comes in contact with a straight cut straw. To fix this possible scenario I cut mine like this.




This has worked good for me

 

I've always heard 2 quarters. But the most important thing is a straight cut on the low end.

 

UPDATE : Everything is back together now and on the road again . I`m happy and thanks for the replies guys .

 

Good to hear. Hope it does you right.