3 cold cylinders
#1
3 cold cylinders
hello Peoples,
I have just purchased a 5.9 Cummings 3/4 ton (not running) with 1,3 and 5 cylinders not getting fuel. I have not got to touch it yet. I work offshore and bought the truck my last day home. The short story is, I trouble shot the truck for an old man approximately3 years ago for a (rough idle) and found it had 3 cold exhaust ports. I told him I was 90% sure it was the injection pump, but to get a diesel mechanic to take a look at it. its sat all this time and now its my problem. any ideas out there? I read something on this site, some one had 3 cylinders cold but it was a 2007 and it was the back 3 cylinders, 6,2 and 4. some one said it was valve cover gaskets?! lost me there anyways I will take any information I can get, because I am new to the Cummings world.
thanks
Robert
I have just purchased a 5.9 Cummings 3/4 ton (not running) with 1,3 and 5 cylinders not getting fuel. I have not got to touch it yet. I work offshore and bought the truck my last day home. The short story is, I trouble shot the truck for an old man approximately3 years ago for a (rough idle) and found it had 3 cold exhaust ports. I told him I was 90% sure it was the injection pump, but to get a diesel mechanic to take a look at it. its sat all this time and now its my problem. any ideas out there? I read something on this site, some one had 3 cylinders cold but it was a 2007 and it was the back 3 cylinders, 6,2 and 4. some one said it was valve cover gaskets?! lost me there anyways I will take any information I can get, because I am new to the Cummings world.
thanks
Robert
#3
I think you have the right idea, most likely the injector pump, though before changing it I'd double check to make sure it isn't sucking air... Also check the valve lash, since a tight valve would cause lost compression... with the air cleaner off, listen in the turbo inlet (not tooo close), and if an intake valve is leaking, you ought to be able to hear it through there, listening to the exhaust (especially if it's straight piped, but I would doubt yours is) you'd be able to hear exhaust valves hiss if they're burnt/tight.
Does it smoke?
And by the way, Cummins has no 'g' in it
Does it smoke?
And by the way, Cummins has no 'g' in it
#4
HUMM just realized I spelt that with the G, mind was sure not working that day. I get to go in tomorrow from offshore so this week end I will have the truck at my shop were I can do some trouble shooting in comfort. this truck has not been touched in at least 3 years, so I'm sure other problems will possibly come up. I got it for a deal, even with the problems its only has 60,000 miles on it so its worth some time. I can not recall when I last seen it run if it was smoking or not, seems it may have had a small amount of white smoke with it. I will have a lot more to go with once I can get it home and get to work on it. going to be a busy week, think I bagged my dream car 1969 dodge charger 500, so that deal goes down first nervous as hell though, because its not a done deal yet !
thanks again RX7
thanks for the good pointers the valves never did cross my mind.
thanks again RX7
thanks for the good pointers the valves never did cross my mind.
#5
Good luck with the car... I wouldn't mind one of those myself
I'd start with the basics on the truck, make sure there's not air in the lines, then check the valve lash, if that doesn't help, I think you'd be best to take it to a shop and get a leakdown/compression check on it to make sure it's not a head gasket (or perhaps disconnect the injector pump electrical plug and crank it, see if it sounds like it has the same compression on all 6 cylinders to start) After you're positive the mechanical side is good, it leaves only the IP and injectors.
It sure has low mileage, so I would doubt anything in the bottom end is bad
I'd start with the basics on the truck, make sure there's not air in the lines, then check the valve lash, if that doesn't help, I think you'd be best to take it to a shop and get a leakdown/compression check on it to make sure it's not a head gasket (or perhaps disconnect the injector pump electrical plug and crank it, see if it sounds like it has the same compression on all 6 cylinders to start) After you're positive the mechanical side is good, it leaves only the IP and injectors.
It sure has low mileage, so I would doubt anything in the bottom end is bad
#6
#7
Good luck with the car... I wouldn't mind one of those myself
I'd start with the basics on the truck, make sure there's not air in the lines, then check the valve lash, if that doesn't help, I think you'd be best to take it to a shop and get a leakdown/compression check on it to make sure it's not a head gasket (or perhaps disconnect the injector pump electrical plug and crank it, see if it sounds like it has the same compression on all 6 cylinders to start) After you're positive the mechanical side is good, it leaves only the IP and injectors.
It sure has low mileage, so I would doubt anything in the bottom end is bad
I'd start with the basics on the truck, make sure there's not air in the lines, then check the valve lash, if that doesn't help, I think you'd be best to take it to a shop and get a leakdown/compression check on it to make sure it's not a head gasket (or perhaps disconnect the injector pump electrical plug and crank it, see if it sounds like it has the same compression on all 6 cylinders to start) After you're positive the mechanical side is good, it leaves only the IP and injectors.
It sure has low mileage, so I would doubt anything in the bottom end is bad
#8
OK, Here it is ! I did what I typically do I just jumped into it and pulled the injector pump and replaced it. It still is doing the same thing. ok, live and learn. so now I guess its time to think instead of just hanging on the end of the wrenches. the truck has 53335 miles on it, wow its low miles for a 2001.
I'm going to get my brothers scan tool and do some checks on what if any codes that could be of some help.
Oh and the car, well it was not a 1969 but it is still a good deal. its a 1970 with a 505 stroker and I got it for 10,000. its an old restoration so the body has no rust, interior needs work.
I'm going to get my brothers scan tool and do some checks on what if any codes that could be of some help.
Oh and the car, well it was not a 1969 but it is still a good deal. its a 1970 with a 505 stroker and I got it for 10,000. its an old restoration so the body has no rust, interior needs work.
#9
Well good thing I got it cheap, and good reason the 1,5 and 3 where cold. the old man that had it has to be hard of hearing. it has 2 broken rods. so next question, is there a difference in crank shafts from the auto and standards? I found an auto engine with under 150,000 miles for a good price.
#10
Wow.. How in tarnation does someone throw the rods in 50,000 miles??
Engines should swap out pretty easy, only difference might be on the injectors/computer.
Most likely the old engine is a boat anchor, but I'd love to know what happened to it. The only thing I can think of right now is coolant getting into the oil and wiping out the bearings ... I know they don't like that! The head might be salvagable at least.
Engines should swap out pretty easy, only difference might be on the injectors/computer.
Most likely the old engine is a boat anchor, but I'd love to know what happened to it. The only thing I can think of right now is coolant getting into the oil and wiping out the bearings ... I know they don't like that! The head might be salvagable at least.