why not just swap the hx35 on instead?

you definitely want a gate on the secondary for load balancing.

I don't tow much with it because I need a new trailer brake controller. but it has towed the old mans F350 dually on the gooseneck tilt trailer.

the two together is roughly 18-20k lbs. trailer weighs at least as much as the truck empty...heavy duty trailer . with hydraulic power tilt bed, winch, etc. on the trailer.

the more load on the truck the lower the EGTs get. twins are an amazing thing...the egts get seemingly high but that big turbo starts moving more and more air and egts start getting lower and lower once the primary is moving decently.

my setup is more for competition than towing, but 150hp injectors would do great for a towing setup as they are not smokey like my injectors...

and that is really the only draw back to my setup: smoke..

the only other draw back to twins is it is harder to get an exhaust brake setup on a truck with twins.

 

No !! Currently I'm looking at a 5" PacBrake that requires on board air. Pain in the butt, and not cheap.

Agree, you can pick up used ones for $300. It's what I ran as a single, and in my compounds before making the 35/40.

And to reduce drive pressure, helping to keep that head gasket healthy. I'm in the process of installing a 50mm external waste gate to try and reduce drive and spool the S471 more.

Currently with my set up, I have a hard time reaching and going over 1300* pulling 14,000 lbs. Makes 60 psi boost with the Smarty out, and Edge off.

 

Well I was going to run the h1e by itself for awhile and it's also 7mm bigger than the hx35 that's on there so I figured I could make a bracket for the wastegate but I just wanted to use the exhaust housing because it's already wastegate ready and I doubt I put an exhaust brake on anytime soon but hope to eventually!! And should I fire ring it I'm not 100% sure what this is and thanks for the help guys

 

no fire rings!

fire rings are not good for daily driven trucks...

if you are paranoid about the head gasket you can O-ring the head, but do not fire ring it.

fire rings tend to crack and break after many heat cycles and then the head gasket goes...they are also a 100% permanent mod as you have to machine both the head and the block.

fire rings basically are thick rings that go around the cylinder between the head and block that a groove must be cut into the head and block to hold them, and then the stock fire rings in the head gasket must be removed so they can take their place.

O-rings are a thin stainless wire ring that a small groove in just the head must be cut to accommodate. They get pinched between the head and the top of the fire ring on the gasket to provide extra sealing pressure.

I use neither method. Just head studs @ 135# torque and it's holding 75psi just fine.

 

Ok so I'll just go with studs I guess I ain't really paranoid just heard fire rings thrown around a lot and wasn't 100% thank you very much for the info on that and Savin me the headaches that would have came haha and is there any answer to machining the exhaust housing at all??

 

So if i ran the h1e by itself until i get everything around for my compounds do i need a wastegate?? I dont have the new studs in yet planned on doin everything at one time during a fun weekend

 

just watch your egts and use right foot control.

 

Well i might be s*** outta luck cuz the ol lead foot cant be controlled at times!!! Hahaha and thanks for all the great info and advice though guys and ill fire the post back up when i get started on the compounds!!!