What are the best years to avoid the 53 block if there are any?

 

#53 blocks were used in 98-2002 24V's (and a few 98 12V's but the 12V's dont seem to have the cracking problems)

 

i think they were most prevelent in the 98.5-00 years IIRC. My 99's 53 may crack tomorrow, but it's made it over 200k so far.

 

Theres also much info here:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...formation.html

And here:

https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...53-blocks.html

 

i just bought an o1 cummins and found out about the 53 block so i went and checked out mine. it has a 55 will i have any trouble with it or am i in the clear???

 

You are good to go man....55 is one of the best I believe

 

alright thanks

 

I believe the "56" block was the best built, came out of Mexico if I recall?

 

not quite, the strongest 24 valve blocks have the number 6 real big on the drivers side of the block followed by a lot of smaller numbers, no not the ID numbers found toward the blocks rear, these are right next to the inch tall "6". these blocks were mostly found in generators, cranes and other heavy construction equipment. very rarely are they found in a dodge truck, ive only seen one(and stupid me sold that truck ) a lot of hard core pro pullers look for those block because the wall thickness is atualy .056 thicker then the truck version as to allow for the extra duty these blocks tend to recieve. interally, everything is interchangeable which allows them to build a powerful realible block. Ive only found a couple of these blocks sitting in junkyards or on ebay as most of the applications they were put in are still in use today. the 54, 55 and 56 series were a little thicker in that weak area wher the 53 is prone to crack. Also, just because you have a 53, doesnt mean itll crack. 3 out of 4 of our trucks have 53 blocks, noe have cracked yet and all are over 120k miles on them, mine making 500 dyno proven hp and 219k miles. less then one percent of the 53 blocks made actually cracked. according to TDR, only those blocks with a thickness of .253 or less were prone to cracking, most were .254 or thicker and have never recorded had a crack like the thinner versions. if you want to find out how thick yours is, pull the motor, and drain the block, then remove the freeze plug from the 3 and 4 cylinders and take a diacaliper and measure the external wall thickness and the water jacket thickness, .253 or less, you may eventually have an issue, most crack between 90k and 130k miles if you get .254 or greater, you can sleep a little easier.

 

Duke a person should be able to do that by just pulling the Turbo an manifold shouldn't he ? Also are you a registred member of TDR ? I've heard they have some good info on there about this subject . Is pulling these plugs the only way to tell ? I may end up doing it to put my mind to rest but I dread it . Lockinstitch has a brace that can be installed but mine is a Auto an right there at the 2nd plug where they crack the most is where the Trans cooler is . Anyway thanks for the info .