On each side of the pump top there are two small pieces of all thread with jam nuts. One is the idle screw (closest one to the head) and the max speed is closer to the fender. It just limits throttle travel, in the factory position itll stop the throttle shaft from spinning while still allowing the throttle pedal to finish its travel. Basically; max throttle input is limited before the pedal reaches the floor. Max fuel screw will need removed for pump top installation after spring install. Count the turns as you remove the screw, or back the jam nut off half turn only and use it as your marker for factory setting. Either way theres a collar tack welded that prevents you from really hopping up the fuel, you can usually only get half turn to a full turn in before the sleeve prevents you from any more adjustment. Rotating the pin is simple. Remove the boost reference banjo fitting from the AFC top, remove the 4 screws holding the top. Rotate pin and diaphragm before pulling up on pin (resets rack pin in its bore) remove pin; note the cone is off set. Shallow side of the cone goes towards the radiator. Do not move throttle lever while pin is removed to avoid rack pin from popping into the bore. Teflon washer under fuel pin is optional, some argue it helps; others dont. Reassemble. Enjoy a truck that runs like it just had it's handcuffs removed.


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its actually a tranny fluid heater it came from the factory on all auto trucks as far as i know. thats why theres the lines goin to and from the coolant ports on the block. i got rid of it on my truck. id rather have my tranny fuilder cooler than not.

 

I think I misled you; deep side of the cone needs to face the radiator. Sorry about that man


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