90% of my truck is ran off toggle switches. Im not a big fan of wiring either. As far as the grids go just run power to a momentary toggle then to the heater and hold it as long as you want them to run and you should be good.

 

Heaters work, just not at the desired or ideal temp. That's what spawned all of this. I know what you're saying but i'd like to figure out why the temps are off and maintain the factory system since on cold start with the engine running the heaters continue to cycle. Push button like you said is bullet proof and simple. I just would like to preserve the after start up cycling without havin to push the button myself.


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My IAT sensor was replaced with a water/meth injection nozzle a couple years ago.

I disliked the headlight dimming post-start grid cycle. I think all that does is reduce exhaust emissions for the first couple minutes after cold start. Function almost always trumps form for me.

 

Understandable, my truck does some funky things on cold start up. KSB is screwy . It'll pick up and drop rpm, idle low so on and so fowarth. Randomly... Lol. Perfectly warm idle is ideal.


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My KSB is also manually switched. The only time I use it is for a minute or 2 on fast idle (also manual throttle cable controlled!) to reduce the white smoke after cold start. I'm pretty sure both those "features" (KSB and post-start grid cycle) were never expected to be anything more than primitive pollution controls.

 

Makes sense, KSB advances timing for your normal "operation" so in a dead state the retardation aids in cold starting. Although I've heard between the two intercooled and non, the KSB works opposite, one works with juice and the other in the absence of battery power. So I'd have to determine if to wire the truck up if I'd cut power or supply power for the pump to advance.


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The KSB has absolutely nothing to do with starting. It only advances timing (either in the presence of absence of voltage, depending on the version) when the "other" IAT sensor tells it to, and it cannot physically do anything until after the engine starts.

 

I understand that, that it works off of vane pressure from the pump, but if the presence of fuel pressure is kept from the advance piston until the KSB is energized leaving the pump at base timing, wouldn't that mean the pump is retarded in relation to KSB hot; fuel pressure present.


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No. and if by "hot" you mean 68F, then I guess it depends on how long it takes your intake to reach 68F. That's when a properly functioning IAT sensor tuns it off.

It closes off the pump's internal pressure regulator bleed port. Pump pressure increases and moves the advance piston against its spring. Then the piston rotates the cam ring so the rollers hit the lobes sooner, advancing timing.

None of that can happen until after the engine is running. Base timing is what it is. Most people who have tuned their VE's much have already advanced the timing beyond what makes the 6-8 degree KSB effect even noticeable.

 

I do like the after starting grid cycling, there are some times my truck doesn't do it and it takes much longer to start running nice and smokeless when it doesn't run. I hate the white smoke after starting and I don't know if everybody's trucks do it as bad as mine but mine looks like im burning a haystack for about a minute after startup but it goes away much quicker when the grid cycles. It just looks trashy in the parking lot for one thing, and I don't like it looking like that for so long.

I wonder if there's a way I can hook up the push switch, to make it run when the grid doesn't fully cycle but leave it to run the stock way if it does function right and/or after startup?