Truck is having an issue cycling the grid heaters this year. The self check doesn't show up in the dash anymore but if I unplug the intake heater and force the heaters to turn on for a complete cycle the light comes on.


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Air Intake Sensor go bad?

 

Kinda what I was thinking, but none of the lights in the information center light up like they used to... Idk maybe I'm thinking of my parents old 93 that they all lit up momentarily when keyed on. I also know it's gotta be pretty much freezing out before they'll pre heat and it was 37 when I fired it up this morning. Even at 37 they'd cycle on and off while warming up.


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Yea mine kicks on if it gets below 40. As far as the lights, mine are MIA so I couldnt tell ya. Good Luck!

 

The lights don't bother me, more along the lines of if them not working is a sign of a module being toast, hence why they don't function unless the system is sent into a fault


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They should cycle if it gets below 60 outside.

 

If that's the case then they've been screwed up for years . I figured with the KSB and dynamic timing of the VE the grids weren't needed until a lower temp because of the timing properties. I don't think the P7100's cycle until 50's


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I know mine is kinda finnicky, sometimes they cycle for about 2 seconds and kick off and my truck runs like crap for a few minutes unless I cycle the heater a few times before starting, other times it runs much longer. Is there a good, safe, and somewhat easy way to make them run longer like off of a switch or something? Even the 7 seconds or so that it runs when its doing good isn't always long enough to make it do well when its down in those deep negatives like the -30s that it was some mornings last year here. I don't know if its healthy for them to run any longer but from what I understand they are, I don't think it would do damage to have them cycle a little longer??

 

The last thing I did to eliminate the PCM in the 1st Gen was wire the grids to a manual switch. It's a push/hold switch on the bottom left of the dash that always works. I don't need a light on the dash to tell me what the grids may or may not be doing. The colder it is the longer I heat them, up to about 12 seconds max. 6-8 secs works down to around freezing, more the colder it gets.

 

I definitely like that idea... is there a way to do that without eliminating the rest of the PCM?