where do i get rear brake lines
God this is starting to **** me of Im having a guy here in denver do my lines called custom fits and he came out to my house to pick up my old lines but when I finaly got the line out of the valve on the axle its stripped and no good I went and picked up a new one from napa and this is gona be a pain in the *** to remove does anybody have any pointers? do I have to drop the tank? this is by far the worst brake job of my life most expensive too Im at 400 bucks and my truck is still not moving
400 is cheap... Try owning a Bonneville and having to sink $800 bucks into the brakes... Did one when I was working at a small garage. I would have junked the car for that much
. Soak everything in PB Blaster and get some vice grips. It'll come out.
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. Soak everything in PB Blaster and get some vice grips. It'll come out.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Im finaly done with this all of my brake parts are new except my power booster since i did my master cylnder front calipers rotars and pads last year. in all my rear brakes cost me about $480 so my advice to anyone with rear drum brakes is dont just let your rear brakes go to **** and not fix them like the guy that owned my truck before me did. I even found some parts left over from the previous brake jobs
400 is cheap... Try owning a Bonneville and having to sink $800 bucks into the brakes... Did one when I was working at a small garage. I would have junked the car for that much
. Soak everything in PB Blaster and get some vice grips. It'll come out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
. Soak everything in PB Blaster and get some vice grips. It'll come out.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Vice grips become the "proper tool" when no other tool works, aka stripped
although if you were to use the proper tool from the get go, (flare nut wrench) it's less likely you'll strip it out and have to break out the redneck tool box
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
although if you were to use the proper tool from the get go, (flare nut wrench) it's less likely you'll strip it out and have to break out the redneck tool boxSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All I ever use is the pre-made lengths with flare nuts already on. Just make enough gentle bends to get the job done. Replicating the 'digital waveform' of the stock line isn't necessary. Any extra length you can take up with an extra 'U' or 'S' shape.
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