brakes locked up now have no pedal
#1
brakes locked up now have no pedal
i was driving to school today and i couldnt push the brake pedal and i couldnt stop the truck. i had a friend help me and when he hit the pedal i could hear the rear drums clunking. i am going to remove the drums but it is going to leak diff fluid out right? i just flushed the rear and spent alot of money on royal purple and dont want to do it again. any help will be great!
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can somebody tell me how to remove the drum i cant get the f***in thing off does the hub have to come off first??!!??
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can somebody tell me how to remove the drum i cant get the f***in thing off does the hub have to come off first??!!??
Last edited by jdbigblue12v; 12-06-2011 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#2
you have to remove the diff cover and it sounds like you need to reuse your fluid so catch it in a clean container. then you need to remove your axles and there may or may not be retaining clips for the axles it depends if they are free floating or not,after that there will be a giant nut I think it is 2and9/16 after this the drum will come off but it sounds like your gona have to beat it off. Your probly gona find a giant mess once you get the drums off
#3
His W250 Dodge/Cummins does not use retaining clips for the axles. The DANA70 has full-floating axles. No need in opening the differential for this work.
He will however have to remove the hub-cap, remove the bolts (6?) holding the axle flange to the hub, pull out the axle, remove the large nut you speak off to have the hub/drum assembly come off.
Assuming you'll have the truck jacked-up so as to remove the tire, there won't be but a very small quantity of axle lube pour out (2~ 3 tablespoons).
Removing the drum from the hub will require pressing out the studs.
He will however have to remove the hub-cap, remove the bolts (6?) holding the axle flange to the hub, pull out the axle, remove the large nut you speak off to have the hub/drum assembly come off.
Assuming you'll have the truck jacked-up so as to remove the tire, there won't be but a very small quantity of axle lube pour out (2~ 3 tablespoons).
Removing the drum from the hub will require pressing out the studs.
Last edited by BC847; 12-06-2011 at 05:02 PM.
#5
You could repack bearings because they don't have to be bad. Wheel seals are easy and should be done. No matter what you do you'll lose some fluid out of the tube. You really don't need royal purple in a truck axle that's so low speed. Maybe a Porsche 911 rear but not a first gen dodge diesel rear. Next time just grab some regular cheap stuff.
#6
You could repack bearings because they don't have to be bad. Wheel seals are easy and should be done. No matter what you do you'll lose some fluid out of the tube. You really don't need royal purple in a truck axle that's so low speed. Maybe a Porsche 911 rear but not a first gen dodge diesel rear. Next time just grab some regular cheap stuff.
#7
#8
You are right about doing something once and doing it right. The problem here is that your Slurpee juice oil isn't giving you any benefit over Valvoline at $3 a quart. Now you're the one crying about losing gear oil that costs so much. We're trying to help you by preventing you from wasting any more money.
Now back on topic: go and get a 2 9/16" and pull it apart to see what you're dealing with. Also, don't attempt to do the work if you're not skilled enough to work on a drum 70.
Now back on topic: go and get a 2 9/16" and pull it apart to see what you're dealing with. Also, don't attempt to do the work if you're not skilled enough to work on a drum 70.
#9
You are right about doing something once and doing it right. The problem here is that your Slurpee juice oil isn't giving you any benefit over Valvoline at $3 a quart. Now you're the one crying about losing gear oil that costs so much. We're trying to help you by preventing you from wasting any more money.
Now back on topic: go and get a 2 9/16" and pull it apart to see what you're dealing with. Also, don't attempt to do the work if you're not skilled enough to work on a drum 70.
Now back on topic: go and get a 2 9/16" and pull it apart to see what you're dealing with. Also, don't attempt to do the work if you're not skilled enough to work on a drum 70.
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#10
i dont know if this makes a difference or not but i pulled the drum and removed the wheel stud that was stuck in the rear. i did new shoes and adjusted them until they just grab slightly w/o hitting the brakes. i was driving today and the brakes did the samething and my brake light came on in the dash? what could this mean? my master is full and i have no leaks.