brakes locked up now have no pedal
 

i was driving to school today and i couldnt push the brake pedal and i couldnt stop the truck. i had a friend help me and when he hit the pedal i could hear the rear drums clunking. i am going to remove the drums but it is going to leak diff fluid out right? i just flushed the rear and spent alot of money on royal purple and dont want to do it again. any help will be great!

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can somebody tell me how to remove the drum i cant get the f***in thing off does the hub have to come off first??!!??

you have to remove the diff cover and it sounds like you need to reuse your fluid so catch it in a clean container. then you need to remove your axles and there may or may not be retaining clips for the axles it depends if they are free floating or not,after that there will be a giant nut I think it is 2and9/16 after this the drum will come off but it sounds like your gona have to beat it off. Your probly gona find a giant mess once you get the drums off

His W250 Dodge/Cummins does not use retaining clips for the axles. The DANA70 has full-floating axles. No need in opening the differential for this work.

He will however have to remove the hub-cap, remove the bolts (6?) holding the axle flange to the hub, pull out the axle, remove the large nut you speak off to have the hub/drum assembly come off.

Assuming you'll have the truck jacked-up so as to remove the tire, there won't be but a very small quantity of axle lube pour out (2~ 3 tablespoons).

Removing the drum from the hub will require pressing out the studs.

while your in it that far if you havent already then change the berrings and seals cus i made the mistake of not doing it now i have to do it all over again :argh:

You could repack bearings because they don't have to be bad. Wheel seals are easy and should be done. No matter what you do you'll lose some fluid out of the tube. You really don't need royal purple in a truck axle that's so low speed. Maybe a Porsche 911 rear but not a first gen dodge diesel rear. Next time just grab some regular cheap stuff.

I was thinking the same thing I would never buy that over priced crap, is purple dye really expensive or something? I read somewhere that all oil on the market is made by 3 companies I cant remember where though

the reason for the royal purple is i bought the truck off of a guy who knew nothing about it and the diff fluids were ran low so why not spend the money if i have it? do it once, do it right

You are right about doing something once and doing it right. The problem here is that your Slurpee juice oil isn't giving you any benefit over Valvoline at $3 a quart. Now you're the one crying about losing gear oil that costs so much. We're trying to help you by preventing you from wasting any more money.

Now back on topic: go and get a 2 9/16" and pull it apart to see what you're dealing with. Also, don't attempt to do the work if you're not skilled enough to work on a drum 70.

Just saying, but I wouldn't take your word on differential oil. purely based on your statement of needing to repack the bearings for the rear axle... They run in differential oil for a reason... And the vehicle doesnt need to be a high speed vehicle to benefit from a synthetic oil, it's meant to be an oil that works in extreme pressures aka keeping the oil between the ring and pinion preventing contact of the two. If you can't figure out the benefits of that, then even the petroleum based stuff is too complex for you. Talking about educating someone... Youre cutting him down for something he may have made an educated decision on. As for the statement about the 3 main petroleum distributors... Pretty much correct. Say Wal mart special and valvoline are bottled from the same plant; doesn't mean they have the same additive content just started as the same product shipped in bulk. At any rate they tell you the bottling company, for the sake of argument royal purple is under their own authority. Being a full synthetic (which wal mart doesn't distribute) pretty much out rules that royal purple is on the same playing field all together. Do some research, learn the benefits of a synthetic then decide if it's overly priced. Cheap insurance if you ask me, conventional has been doing it's job for years, not saying that it doesn't serve it's purpose it just breaks down faster meaning decreased service intervals. That's the main benefit of asynthetic over conventional. As for being skilled enough to work on a 70... If he can take the differential cover off to drain the old oil and replace it with new; there's a pretty good chance he can handle a "drum 70" so much for a guy just trying to take a little bit of guess work out of the job. Along the lines of doing it right the first time; that can also apply to tool choice. Best way to figure out the size? Read or ask. if you buy the wrong socket size for the wheelbearing, you're cutting into your savings from buying the $3 valvoline gear oil over the royal purple. If you've got knowledge; share it. If your knowledge is inaccurate; learn. But Dont beat someone down and try to cram something down their throat.


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i dont know if this makes a difference or not but i pulled the drum and removed the wheel stud that was stuck in the rear. i did new shoes and adjusted them until they just grab slightly w/o hitting the brakes. i was driving today and the brakes did the samething and my brake light came on in the dash? what could this mean? my master is full and i have no leaks.