good pump rebuilder????
#12
Thanks for the input mark I to have always had to fix things myself. Thats how I ended up opening my own shop( gas engines) I just couldn't (or could not afford) to pay someone else to work on my stuff. i am a little leary on the diesel injection pump cause of horror stories about runaways and makin alot of peices outta my truck! BUT after surfin this site loaded with all the info you fellas put out it s not really all that intimidating. just have ta learn and do some serious studying on how they work and what makes 'um tick!!!!( rattle) so thanks for all the info!!!!!
#13
I use one philosophy when working on unknowns:
Be informed in what you're doing.
That having been said, even a crude blown-up example drawing or schematic goes a LONG way in knowing what you're getting into.
Look at it this way, if you can take a 4 barrel carb clear apart and re-assemble it correctly, you can do an injection pump, the complication level is similar.
So is the stress level, for losing parts.
1 thing:
ALWAYS remove the fuel screw prior to removing the top!
The most damning part of a VE pump is removing the top and not losing the tophat, spring(s) or pin.
To minimize that, I push the throttle shaft through the top as I pick it up off the main case, done right, the shaft is pushed through the top and ends up laying on top of the governor assembly, free and clear, while the top is placed on the bench.
You then pick up the throttle shaft, spring(s), pin and tophat, slide it over, push the pin through the fueling lever and fish the spring up through the lever's slot, thus removing pin, spring and tophat as an assembly.
This may be Greek to you, but a blow-up of it will help you understand.
Mark.
Be informed in what you're doing.
That having been said, even a crude blown-up example drawing or schematic goes a LONG way in knowing what you're getting into.
Look at it this way, if you can take a 4 barrel carb clear apart and re-assemble it correctly, you can do an injection pump, the complication level is similar.
So is the stress level, for losing parts.
1 thing:
ALWAYS remove the fuel screw prior to removing the top!
The most damning part of a VE pump is removing the top and not losing the tophat, spring(s) or pin.
To minimize that, I push the throttle shaft through the top as I pick it up off the main case, done right, the shaft is pushed through the top and ends up laying on top of the governor assembly, free and clear, while the top is placed on the bench.
You then pick up the throttle shaft, spring(s), pin and tophat, slide it over, push the pin through the fueling lever and fish the spring up through the lever's slot, thus removing pin, spring and tophat as an assembly.
This may be Greek to you, but a blow-up of it will help you understand.
Mark.
The following users liked this post:
Billy D (10-06-2010)
#14
other things to look out for. the little button that gose between the cam plate and rotor use a little clean white grease to hold it in place. the cam plate can go in 2 ways check the pin on the plate with the key way on the input shaft. if you take the collor off the rotor make sure you put it back on the same way you took it off . thing I would replace are the springs for the rotor we used to see lots of them broken when I worked in this field. the throttle bushing if it a brass one the new ones are steel. ken
The following users liked this post:
Billy D (10-06-2010)
#15
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HardLuck
Diesel In Distress - Support Ticket
0
06-24-2015 08:04 AM