I've done it twice.

 

i have at least 1 guy i can call on for help. and i do have the proper tools... doesnt seem all that hard to me. find out when i get there right?

 

Just don't dive into it cold. Find and study up on a HOWTO, make sure you have all the specs, correct parts and understand exactly how everything works. Don't get scared if it seems to run hot the first thousand miles or so. That is normal break in if done right. Change the fluid after that and if it's not noisy and the fluid doesn't come out all shiny you're probably good to go.

Of course, R&P works is expensive and time consuming to learn by trial and error, so I'm not encouraging this by any means!

 

did you find your parts?
and it is not a big deal but it is WAY easier to pull it out from under the truck!

 

I might pull it to work on it. I have upgraded U-bolts and I will have to drill the plates a little anyways. maybe I can get to the shocks too, whoever installed the GN forgot where the shock bolts are and there's no room to get them out .

prolly be a few days before I can order parts, but hoping I can find something to get them done this weekend.

 

right on good luck

 

this explains a lot.

it is a standard 70. 3 series bearings. but it has a 4.10 gearset in it...

would explain why i max out at 90 and my speedo shows just over 100.

I think im gonna go back to stock 3.54 since I drive 80% highway.. but now i'll have to regear the front D60 to match

 

well after doing the rear you may just feel confident enough to do the front. dana's aren't bad. a 70 uses shims to set the pinion preload so if you have it to tight you can just add a few and loosen it up or take out to tighten it up. the worst is going to be setting backlash because the shims are under the bearings. do yourself a favor and buy a dana gear. with the markings on the pinion you really can mess up the pinion depth. look in your service manual and it will explain what i am talking about. also a common problem is the left bearing spinning on the carrier. if the bearing just falls off its junk or if it pulls off with ease then the same thing, the bearing fit will look like a spun road bearing. if that is the case it usually eats at the side of the housing where the race hits, kinda like the inside of the tube so to speak. just take an air angle grinder with a roll lock pad and take the high edge off. if you don't do this it kinda messes with the case preload. i.e. it will feel tight when you beat it in but once it sits in the all the way back in the bearing journal it will be loose.

yes i do this for a living. rebuilding diffs, making driveshafts, rebuilding transfer cases, installing clutches and rebuilding some manual transmissions.

 

makes it a little easier to get a case spreader

 

Good luck on your first time. I hope you have someone who knows how to do it there to show you how. At least you know what the ring and pinion are called, not "the gear-looking thingie" like someone who was thinking about doing their rear end (who shall remain nameless) called it. Mine will be going back together in the next few days too. Just be thankful you didn't find out you had a Dana 60 like me instead of a 70.