A really varnished injection pump could possibly provide enough restriction to slow an engine turning over... By that point I'd imagine that the injection pump will need a rebuild and I'd think it'd be pretty rare. It's way more likely to have some unwanted resistance inside of the engine, which means that the engine needs a rebuild, or inside the starter, which means the starter needs a rebuild, or inside the valve train, which means the valve train needs a rebuild.

At this point I would be doing an amp test on the starter. If the starter is drawing lots of amps, ~500 or something like that, then that is a sign that the starter's electrical current is up to par but the engine has an unwanted resistance in it somewhere. If the starter is drawing ~100 amps or something, then it's a sign that the electrical system is not up to par.

If you don't have an amp gauge you can bar the engine over by hand and see how much resistance is on it by feel. Try a nut on the alternator pulley; if the belt tension is right, you should be able to turn the engine over by the alternator pulley without slipping the belt.

 

the turbo is froze up.could that restrict the airflow enough not to start, and slow the starter down?

 

 

if there is enough compression it should fire off of either without any fuel. i would pull all the intake tubing off and make sure there is nothing blocking air flow. you shouldnt need much compression to fire either so it sounds like it is not getting to the cylinder at all. Also either is not bad as long as you dont use more than it needs. make sure you are turning the engine over and you hold the can a couple feet away from intake before you spray.

 

who told you ether isnt bad for engines?

 

Maybe I did, don't remember...

 

Uh my diesel teacher told me. as long as you dont use too much. obviously you dont want to run it for very long on either but enough to get it started wont hurt anything

 

The only problem with using ether as a starting aid comes into play with the grid heaters. That can make quite a mess of things. I use it to help start the 1st Gen during the winter because that truck no longer has grid heaters. It doesn't "need" the ether to start, but saves on cranking. This year I installed a check valve into the intake plate spacer along with the W/M nozzles with a line running into the cab so I can give it the ether shot before cold starts without even popping the hood.

 

I'd like to address those who are a little hard nosed about learning new things or relearning old things! Ether is safe to use 100%!!!! Under the premise that you use it properly! First, there are modern engines with factory installed ether start systems as part of the engine. Some the driver activate and some are automatic based on air temp and coolant temp. The first thing to know about ether is it has lubricant in it! Therefore its not just an alcohol wash down! The key to using ether is the right amount (very little) and the best is the brands that have the closest to fog tip on the aerosol can! And as someone else already said, spraying at a distance AFTER ENGINE ROTATION HAS ALREADY BEGUN AND AFTER THE GRID HEATER CYCLE! I have from 8 feet! This is done to use only the airborne dropplets, so each cylinder gets some, and reduce direct hosing! If your engine doesn't "partially start or run off the properly used ether, You 100% have a compression issue! Valves or Rings... Obviously ether can be used improperly and cause issues! But that is 100% a different conversation!