I don't have access to a t-bar puller to pull the pump gear. Is there anything else that I can do or use. I have tried a puller that you can rent from autozone put I have to crank on it so hard I think i'm gonna mess it up, it's only ment for pulling a steeringwheel. So I'm seeing if there is an alternative before I get really mean with this puller.

I am going to pull the whole timing cover too. So is there some other puller that will work when I pull the cover off?

 

i use a harmonic balancer puller (pretty much the same as a steering wheel puller.

i dont know if its the right tool or not but ive worked for me time and time again without problems

 

If you're doing this with the gear-case cover in place, DON'T DROP THE IP GEAR KEY INTO THE ENGINE!

Even if you plan on pulling the cover, if the key falls into the pan, well . . . . .

Before you pull the IP gear . . .
- Is the engine at TDC of cylinder #1?
- Is the IP locked?

 

I used this...

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

thats one of them throw a way tools isnt it bobby use once and get a new one

 

Its not the best quality but for $15 it did a good job and if it breaks they will replace it. If I had another use for it I would get a better one. But I used it once and it will probably sit on teh shelf now.

 

OOOO! thanks for the reminder. I don't think I have it on TDC but I locked the pump. So I guess when I get at it on Tuesday i'll back out the pump lock bolt and then get it on TDC.

Thank you for the reminder on that one.

I'm using one of those steering wheel pullers just afraid I'm gonna break it with how hard i'm crankin on it. Already broke a 3/8 ratchet trying to get the last balancer bolt out ha ha. "Guess I shouldn't have put that bar on the end of it".

I guess if I get the balancer off and take the cover off i could give it a few little taps with the puller tight and see if it will pop loose.

 

instead of finding top dead center i just mark the tooth on the cam gear aligned with the pump gear, and mark them both. since the injection pump gear is keyed and only goes on one way. if the marks line up then it was back to wear it was before (assuming it ran when pulled). some guys might criticize that but never once has it not worked for me

 

Well after the pump is off I'm going to do a compression test on all cylinders, pull the head, and then adjust all the lifters. So I think TDC will be easier when I go to put everything back together.

So what is some good engine paint to use? I might be able to get some tan CUMMINS paint, but I think I only want to use that on the block and I'll put something different on the valve covers, pan, and all the other small things just to mix it up so it's not to boring under the hood.

Anyways, think the tapping on it a little while pressure applied on the puller would help it?

 

check out my pics of my engine color under the covnersions thread. i use the duplicolor 500 degree engine enamel. it works the best IMO i tried all of them when i did my block. i used those and the clear coat for a little extra protection. it came out nice.

as for going to tdc so it all stays together, when you do the compression check thatll all mix everything back up. and back to what i said with the marking the gears, theyll always go back on the same way to as long as theyre lined up upon re assembly, no matter how much turning over the engine you do, itll still be fine. but thats just the way i do it. doesnt really matter how everyone does it as long as the outcome is the same