ARP STUD WTF??
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i havent seen a stud kit listed for a first gen... always 2nd and up... so i assume these directions are for the seconds gens... you can always try one or two and see if there are any problems, i've seen a stud post or two for either the 2nd or 3rd gen where clearancing the valve cover is required but i'm not so sure for these old girls... havent seen a write up for te first gen; i'm sure theres one out there
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also just read your other post... since your running the 2nd gen head now; and using the 2nd gen instructions... i'd do as they say i suppose.
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also just read your other post... since your running the 2nd gen head now; and using the 2nd gen instructions... i'd do as they say i suppose.
Last edited by tower_ofpower; 10-02-2009 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#8
i'm hoping they mean the top of the rocker ... if you read the post that the link directs you to, it GREATLY clarifies everything... my guess is that .200 is the thickness of the washer and otherwise with out this clearanced the nut wouldnt engage all the threads and also interfere with valve cover... makes alot more sense seein pictures than reading it and trying to make head or tales from it... does it say anything about bottom tapping the threads?
#9
I don't think BC847 had to modify the rocker pedistals but heres his thread on it.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d....html?t=213091
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d....html?t=213091
As I see it, no one makes studs specifically for the CTD. With that, those available amount to a close fit. Those available are such that, in this case, the studs are too long to use in the OEM block without subtle modification of the block (Bottom-Tapping). Another brand may be a bit too short and require milling of the rocker arm pedestals so as to allow full engagement of the threads of the associated nuts. The later may have changed, I don't know. Do your homework.
The studs I used require Bottom-Tapping of the block's threads to allow the stud to be fully seated in the block. This will in many cases allow the studs to not interfere with the valve covers being fully seated on reassembly. Still, some grinding of the valve cover's internal webbing may be required to clear the studs.
I've read where a few consumers don't advocate bottom-tapping as they had issues with installing the studs afterward. I can't help but believe they did something incorrectly.
he went with the A1 and they requir the tap
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