ARP STUD WTF??
 

just got my arp stud kit and in big bold print it says YOU MUST HAVE THE ROCKER PEDISTAL MACHINED DOWN .200 DEEP BY 1.100 WIDE so it will clear what the :edit: is this horse :edit:

hmmmm that is interesting.... i hear all the time about people installing studs without removing the head so i know that they don't do this machining...... but why the rocker pedistal has to be machined..... was this kit head studs or rocker arm studs?

the old for 7.3 have the same deal, but they have to shave down an injector.

head

To do it right you may have to bottom tap the block, mill down the pedestals and clearance the valve covers.

The bottom-tapping is to get the stud itself to clear the valve cover, the milling and clearancing is to get the nut to clear the valve cover.

i havent seen a stud kit listed for a first gen... always 2nd and up... so i assume these directions are for the seconds gens... you can always try one or two and see if there are any problems, i've seen a stud post or two for either the 2nd or 3rd gen where clearancing the valve cover is required but i'm not so sure for these old girls... havent seen a write up for te first gen; i'm sure theres one out there

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also just read your other post... since your running the 2nd gen head now; and using the 2nd gen instructions... i'd do as they say i suppose.

I don't think BC847 had to modify the rocker pedistals but heres his thread on it.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d....html?t=213091

i'm hoping they mean the top of the rocker lol... if you read the post that the link directs you to, it GREATLY clarifies everything... my guess is that .200 is the thickness of the washer and otherwise with out this clearanced the nut wouldnt engage all the threads and also interfere with valve cover... makes alot more sense seein pictures than reading it and trying to make head or tales from it... does it say anything about bottom tapping the threads?

QUOTE BY BC847

As I see it, no one makes studs specifically for the CTD. With that, those available amount to a close fit. Those available are such that, in this case, the studs are too long to use in the OEM block without subtle modification of the block (Bottom-Tapping). Another brand may be a bit too short and require milling of the rocker arm pedestals so as to allow full engagement of the threads of the associated nuts. The later may have changed, I don't know. Do your homework.
The studs I used require Bottom-Tapping of the block's threads to allow the stud to be fully seated in the block. This will in many cases allow the studs to not interfere with the valve covers being fully seated on reassembly. Still, some grinding of the valve cover's internal webbing may be required to clear the studs.
I've read where a few consumers don't advocate bottom-tapping as they had issues with installing the studs afterward. I can't help but believe they did something incorrectly.


he went with the A1 and they requir the tap

so as he stated; just follow the directions. manufacturer knows best... go have the tops of the rocker pedestals milled and dont worry about bottom tapping the block. it shouldn't cost too much. and maybe a 3-5 day turn around depending on the machine shop you go to