Ok, I checked the turbo last night. By grabbing the shaft with my fingers(wow, that sounds dirty), there doesn't seem to be any play. I replaced the fuel filter about 2000 miles ago. I turned the star wheel clockwise when I adjusted it. I think the truck has the stock muffler on it still......should I just hack that sucker off?

 

haha did you seriously ask me whether or not to hack the muffler off? of course; get rid of that thing what else did you think i was going to say?!?! but in all seriousness... were running out of things to try... did you ever check the valve adjustment? in order to set it to #1 TD rotate the engine and watch the rockers on #1... when the intake goes down and closes watch #6 for valve overlap; the exh rocker should all but close and you'll see the intake rocker start to move. both rocker on #6 should be tight. and that'll put you where you need to be on #1 TD to check the valves... just run the gauge under the rockers on #1: if they're off too far then check and adjust the rest. off the top of my head its .015 intake and .020 exhaust. anyone want to confirm? and do you know the adjusting proceedure?

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do you have a pyro by chance?

 

I'm going to check the valves this weekend. My brother got the step by steps off the net somewhere and we're going to do his truck as well as mine. Right now I do not have a pyro, but it's on the shopping list for purchases to be made soon. I'm going to be hooking up my fuel pressure gauge this weekend also between the lift pump and the injection pump. I am running the stock intake box also. Is that little snorkle on the front of the box big enough to flow the required air? If the mechanical lift pump is taking a dump, can it cause this sort of thing? Looks like it's time to get out the recip. saw.....

 

Thats what she said

 

well i also asked about the pyro b/c if your pump isnt delivering enough fuel its also going to be running relatively cool as well as not having much boost. what kind of mileage do you have on the truck? theres guys with over 300k on the truck and they're still tweakin the pump and everythings just fine. i've read that if the pump is on its way out you'll notice the difference between cold start-up and differences once the engine is warm

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and i'm still running the stock intake box with the little snorkel and pegging the boost gauge at 20 (it was cheap and i bought it w/o looking at the psi) i guess it was meant for gas applications

 

The truck has 163k on it right now. It always starts up right away, never a problem or hickup, regardless of hot or cold. I'm actually suprised how fast it starts up compared to the 99 I used to have.

 

mhmmm; it's a wonderful thing... before i bought my truck off my aunt her daughter's significant other would crank on the poor truck for up to a min b/c the old girl wouldn't start... i wouldn't touch the truck b/c of some other issues that we have with them. but it just turned out to be a loost wire on the fuel shut off... i hated to leave the old girl to that kind of neglect but... that's exactly what they did to this truck. as long as it started they ran it... which meant no upkeep what so ever

 

anything with a turbo this is just as importand as a intake manafold leak on a gasser

and about the turbo fins falling off yes it can happen i have heard it the trubo gets off balence then it blows it leaves a nice little dent in the pipe to

 

thanks for the confirmation big bad theoretically i knew it was possible i just didnt have any experience to back it up. but i know how important the exhaust gaskets are. our old 93 peterbilt had a leak on #1 right behind the thermostat housing; my dad picked up almost another 3 psi on the gauge after he replaced it. as for you bombstack... i was running mine today and the needle was floating past 20 and i was grabbin rubber at 20mph... idk what's up with your cummins but it is... sick i hope something that i suggest works out. i know you pressure tested the intercooler but did you check all of the boost boots that connect it all? also; was there any kind of crud on the inside of the pipes? if there's enough crap in there a partial blockage could occur. you'll see normal charge pressures pre-aftercooler but they'll be low post (where most people mount their gauges) either way; everything that i'm tellin ya to check and tinker with is pretty much free and it does help the engine out as a whole

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i was just lookin back thru the post, you said you noticed grey smoke at 2200 rpm; for the most part steady throttle goin down the road if your boost is where it's supposed to be you shouldn't notice a haze unless under a load. this makes me lean away from a fuel issue and directly with the air supply of the engine and everything else that affects it. but; when you cut the exhaust off, for 50 bucks or so you can make a side dump. if you go to carquest it's about 30 bucks for a 5' section of 3" OD and 20 bucks for a 3" elbow and how ever much for a 3" ID to 3" ID coupler; you may need two. one to couple the new exhaust to the existing; and one to couple the outlet from the elbow. let us know of any developments; like i said were running out of things to try so before long we'll get it and by then everything will be well in tune and it'll run like a raped ape

 

this is bombstacks brother...the pressure tester i made goes onto the intake side of the turbo and pressurizes the whole system and when the gauge on the tester was at 20psi all the couplers were puffed up and tight and the boost gauge inside the truck said 18psi....so i can guess that the intake system of the truck is ok but anything valves and after hasnt been checked yet..this weekend we plan on doing both our valve trains...ordered 3200 springs today...and he has a lift pump on order...check the turbo exhaust side for broken fins and see what chopping the muffler does for it..but until then WHO KNOWS

wouldnt less fuel going into the cylinder make the egts and cylinder temps rise not lower....cause the less fuel you have the engine leans out