I'm not trying to jerk you around. I'm asking all these questions because it is hard to recomend something without all the info. It would be like going to a doctor and saying, "i'm sick I need Meds". All the items are dependent on the other stuff. Depending on where you pump is set at now you have alot more free power to get before injectors. Follow the directions above then when you run out of adjustment look at injectors. If you still running the stock H1C turbo then any real injectors (at least anything worth spending money on) will make it REAL hot. Were are you temps and boost at now?

Having the I/Ced truck you injectors are smaller then the non-I/Ced. Look at a set of POD's or 435's from New Era. Here is an Injector sizing list from 1stgen.

stock 1st gen inj - 6x.009" = .000380" total cross sectional area

2nd gen 215 tips - 4x010 = .000314(17% smaller than stock)

non ic inj - 4x12 = .000452 (19% larger than ic inj)

185's = smaller than stock

190's = smaller than stock

230's = ?

300's = ?

ddp stg III = 50 LPM (liter per minute) 5 hole extrude hone inj

330's - 5x11 = .000474 (20% larger than stock)

2nd gen 370's - 5x12 = .000565 (48% larger than stock)

ddp stg IV = 55 LPM (only 10% larger than stg III's) 5 holes <.013

pods - 4x14 = .000615 (62% larger than stock)

2nd gen 435's - 5x014 = .000769 (twice as large as stock)


custom injectors -

6x13 = .000795

5x15 = .000882

6x14 = .000923

5x16 = .001005

6x15 = .001059

5x17 = .001134 (300% larger than stock)

6x16 = .001206

5x18 = .001272

6x17 = .001360

5x19 = .001416

6x18 = .001526 (400% larger than stock)

5x20 = .001570 (josh ayers custom p-pump inj)

6x20 = .001884 (500% larger than stock)

5x22 = .001900

5x24 = .002261

6x22 = .002280 (600% larger than stock)

 

didnt think that you were I really dont knoww what all they did and didnt give any inf on it . they told me it was set hotter than the bd230.At highway speeds im runing about 500egt unless i step on it and it goes upconsiderably.the power increase out of just that has been alot.still runin evrything else stock accept 100gph air dog.thak you for taking the time to try and help.im not real technicaly advanced in alot of this stuff.also ive got a 4in exhaust from the turbo out.

 

If your only about 500* cruising I would bet you have alot of free power left in the adjustments on the pump. Save the money on the injectors for now and get cranking on the screws!

All the real power is in the full power screw. It is on teh back of the pump and should have a platic cover over it. Use some pliers or something to get it off. Tehn you will see a little metal sleve on the screw that will keep you from turning it in all the way... Use the pliers and a screw driver to pry it off. Remove the intake tube from the turbo and get a buddy with a 2x6 to stand by it... real close... Now you can start turning it in. Go about a 1/4 turn at a time and after each 1/4 turn snap the throttle wide open and relese it. if it hangs there or starts to speed up on its own thats runaway, have your buddy put the bored over the turbo intake (KEEP HANDS WELL CLEAR!!!) to cut off the engine. Whn this happen you need to turn the screw back about a half a turn. After this you will most likly need to turn down your idle to. Then its time to look a turbos!!!

 

weve got the idle down as far as we can get it it still idles a little high but not to bad.you think a turbo should be the next step?my boost gage goes to 35 and it pegs it.I didnt think that was to bad.gonna get a higher reg. one .

 

What kinda EGT's you see at WOT? A turbo would not be a bad Idea. At those amounts of boost all teh stocker is doing is pushing hot air. Maybe look into a GDS 60mm upgrade. About $200 and WELL worth the money. Its good for 40-45psi and will support near 400whp

As for your idle... You can pull some info out of here to get it don if you want.
https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-r...tml#post263045

Remember that larger inectors should drop it down soem also though.

 

my powere screw is stuck what advice can u give me for that

 

does it have the collar still on? if so take it out. make sure you know how far in it was at stock. i used a grinding wheel and i small chisel to take the collar off. put it back in to stock position. go one turn at a time have some thing flat and STURDY to cover the turbo incase of run away. you know you are getting close to run away when you rev it up and the rpm's seem to float or linger down instead of falling normal.

 

on a VE Bosh pump, the most you will get is 250, maybe 290

if you are going higher than that you will eed to do 2 things, #1 ceramic coat your piston, the stock piston are only good up to 300 hp (not recomended) #2 buy the 3911400 piston, this is a marine piston and is tested at 400 HP (can go up to 500)

then you will need p7100 fuel pump, pinline front housing and cover.

the stock injectors will reach 290 with no problem but i would go with next size up.

you can use the stock turbo with these upgrades.

terdd@mail.com

 

not true if the pump is done rite it will fuel to 4200 like mine

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are you talking 250 -290 hp on a VE?
if so the VE can do 500 hp if its done rite
and i have SEEN stock motors with stock pistons put out 500+ hp

 

Most on here are doing Dyno and Drag runs. Not trying to do the high HP in daily driving. Its been done though, time and time again. 3rd GEN's still using stock pistons at over 1000HP. Lots of P7100 trucks are over 600 and more. If you beat on the skinny peddle long enough, anything will break. Same can be said about MLS head gaskets on 12 valves. 3rd gens are MLS head gaskets and making more HP than we will see.. Just my .02 Guess I don't understand your view. PM me with what your talking about. OR Post the info from Cummins web.