12V No Start After Engine Swap
#1
12V No Start After Engine Swap
Heyall,
I am working on a Cummins swap into an '82 Dodge Crew Cab, and I have run into a no start condition. Here's what I know:
The engine came out of my my '93 Ram, 12 valve, intercooled. It ran amazing for the last 5 years of me driving it, never took more than have a second to start. I removed the motor from the '93. While it was out, the only work I did to the motor was installation of the KDP plate, new clutch, new crank seals. I also ran new fuel lines from the lift pump to the tank, and new return line as well.
I am not done all the electrical yet, but I wanted to roll the truck out of the barn, so I attempted to start it. I removed the leads from the shutdown solenoid, and tied the manual leaver in the 'pulled' position. I ran a jumper to my lift pump (electric) and bled out the fuel at the fuel filter. Then I cracked the injectors and cranked the engine until I had fuel spraying everywhere. I closed the injectors and it will not go. I tried messing with the throttle while I was doing this and no difference. I have made no changes to any settings for fuel delivery, and I have done nothing to impact timing. I also tried jumping to the grid heaters but that made no difference. It is a hot sunny day here, so I dont think they should be needed anyways. I have gone through the injector bleeding process 3 or 4 times today and no luck. I am not getting any smoke, no kicks, pops, or stumbles... just dead. I am going to go out right now and re-check all the new fuel lines to ensure they are tight and no air leaks, but I did it right the first time, and I dont expect this to be the problem.
I appreciate any feedback.
Thanks.
I am working on a Cummins swap into an '82 Dodge Crew Cab, and I have run into a no start condition. Here's what I know:
The engine came out of my my '93 Ram, 12 valve, intercooled. It ran amazing for the last 5 years of me driving it, never took more than have a second to start. I removed the motor from the '93. While it was out, the only work I did to the motor was installation of the KDP plate, new clutch, new crank seals. I also ran new fuel lines from the lift pump to the tank, and new return line as well.
I am not done all the electrical yet, but I wanted to roll the truck out of the barn, so I attempted to start it. I removed the leads from the shutdown solenoid, and tied the manual leaver in the 'pulled' position. I ran a jumper to my lift pump (electric) and bled out the fuel at the fuel filter. Then I cracked the injectors and cranked the engine until I had fuel spraying everywhere. I closed the injectors and it will not go. I tried messing with the throttle while I was doing this and no difference. I have made no changes to any settings for fuel delivery, and I have done nothing to impact timing. I also tried jumping to the grid heaters but that made no difference. It is a hot sunny day here, so I dont think they should be needed anyways. I have gone through the injector bleeding process 3 or 4 times today and no luck. I am not getting any smoke, no kicks, pops, or stumbles... just dead. I am going to go out right now and re-check all the new fuel lines to ensure they are tight and no air leaks, but I did it right the first time, and I dont expect this to be the problem.
I appreciate any feedback.
Thanks.
#2
Clearly I have never needed to use the manual fuel shutoff before. I learned that it cannot turn fuel on, only shut fuel off. (unless FSS delete modification has been completed).
So I untied the 'kill switch' and ran a 12 volt jumper to the FSS. Half a crank and she was running like always. How I was able to get fuel spraying out of the injectors and still not get it to run I dont know, but problem has been solved.
Cheers.
So I untied the 'kill switch' and ran a 12 volt jumper to the FSS. Half a crank and she was running like always. How I was able to get fuel spraying out of the injectors and still not get it to run I dont know, but problem has been solved.
Cheers.
#3
Clearly I have never needed to use the manual fuel shutoff before. I learned that it cannot turn fuel on, only shut fuel off. (unless FSS delete modification has been completed).
So I untied the 'kill switch' and ran a 12 volt jumper to the FSS. Half a crank and she was running like always. How I was able to get fuel spraying out of the injectors and still not get it to run I dont know, but problem has been solved.
Cheers.
So I untied the 'kill switch' and ran a 12 volt jumper to the FSS. Half a crank and she was running like always. How I was able to get fuel spraying out of the injectors and still not get it to run I dont know, but problem has been solved.
Cheers.
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